For Johnson Peak leave the main trails and scramble a fun mile left (NE) up the steep ridge with only a faint path at times to the rockier summit. There the views extend from the SE ridge to Hawkeye Point, Old Snowy, Ives Peak, Gilbert Peak, and Mount Adams farther S, with Mount Rainier not far to the NW. Several waterfalls and perhaps mountain goats can be seen in the basins below. Goats can even be seen to the summit so be sure to make noise and not compete with them near the top. From the main trail, bushwhack WNW very steeply up the ridge or just right without falling while near the edge. Look for helpful cairns to the summit but don’t depend on them. See the bright green Heart Lake in the beautiful open basin under Hawkeye Point quickly from the main trail near the saddle.
Avoid brush along the rocky slender ridge NE as the trees thin and you work just right (S) of the ridgeline near a tiny point (6689 ft) to the ridge again with huge boulders and rocks to descend. The route changes to Class 2 as you must scramble quite steeply down 15 ft with decent holds to more solid ground. Next, climb right of a cruddy ridge section finding your way more easily back to the ridgeline. After that, see boulders on the ridge for the remainder of the route with very few trees ½ mi more to the top.
Continue left of the ridge momentarily, then left (N) of big boulders and short gendarmes blocking the ridgeline. Find the faint path hugging the rock for 100 ft, then climb the loose rock right back to the ridge when it’s possible, watching for cairns while checking all of your holds. Cross the ridgeline immediately, moving slightly right of it again, and stay high around a little rocky fake summit to a (usually snowy) small saddle at 7240 ft. Cross the snow without difficulty and then finish the last stretch on an easier approach steeply over the widening rocky ridge to the narrower rocky summit plateau. The exposure is minimal along the SW ridge route and from the top, but a fall or slip over much of it could still be devastating so be extra watchful. Soak in the vistas from this peaceful peak and savor the solitude within this remarkable expanse before descending.
| 16 | HOGBACK MOUNTAIN |
ELEVATION: 6793 ft, with 2400 ft vertical gain
DISTANCE: 5¼ mi up, 10¼ mi round-trip clockwise loop down ski area
DURATION: 3–4 hours up, 6–7 hours round-trip loop
DIFFICULTY: Strenuous. Steady, steep only briefly, scrambling, bugs/ticks possible
TRIP REPORT: Often overlooked from the nearby busy Pacific Crest Trail in the summer is this sweet little double-peaked mountain directly above White Pass Ski Area. The E bowl between summits is easily attained via a short climb from the highest chair lift and is skied on powder days. It is also possible to cross-country ski or snowshoe the route in winter, but you will have to contend with downhill skiers and snowboarders while the ski resort is open, making it somewhat unnerving. Better to go before or after they are in operation, which is usually December through April or May. There is plenty of the white stuff for enthusiasts outside of these months and the packed snow can be walked over in June or July with the last of it lingering as wildflowers abound everywhere else on the slopes (be careful with softer snow around tree wells). Hogback Mountain is the most northern point in Goat Rock Wilderness, which tends to hold snow longer than most regions and is a vast expanse of wonder and amazement tucked away N of Mount Adams (SE of Mount Rainier). Northwest Forest Pass required, and no restroom is present at the small parking circle, but there is a gas station conveniently ½ mi back at the top of White Pass.
Lenticular clouds over Mount Rainier from the White Pass Ski Area.
TRAILHEAD: PCT on White Pass. Take I-5 S from Seattle to exit 142A (Auburn), merge onto WA-18 E to WA-164 E (Enumclaw) to WA-410 E (Chinook Pass Highway), turn slight right onto WA-123 S, turn left onto US-12 E 13 mi to the White Pass area and the TH on the right (just past the White Pass Campground and Trailheads sign that reads “White Pass S TH” at milepost 151¾). From Portland, take I-5 N to exit 68 (Morton/Yakima), turn right on US-12 E 86 mi passing Morton (hint: speed trap), Randle, and Packwood to White Pass and follow as above (113 mi, 2½ hours from Seattle; 161 mi, 2½–3 hours from Portland).
ROUTE: At the PCT TH on White Pass, fill out a free self-issue Wilderness Permit, then begin the clockwise loop past the sign that barely identifies itself as the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail 2000. Cross the bridge over S Fork Clear Creek immediately to slowly rise 1½ mi and 4 switchbacks S up through thick forest on a wide trail. Plenty of small pines and brush along the creek before views of Mount Rainier emerge through the trees to the left. Navigate a few blowdowns without much difficulty, as trees aren’t too huge, up 5 more switchbacks steadily S to a rock field. On the eleventh switchback (total) pass another rock field and arrive at Ginnette Lake 2 mi and about 1 hour in. The tree-surrounded small lake melts off much slower than Leech Lake at the pass and makes for a nice pit stop.
Stay E of the lake easily on the PCT ¼ mi to a juncture with rougher Trail 1144 taking off left (NE) from a wide saddle toward Twin Peaks a mile away. Head right (SW) on the PCT instead, up a wide, easy ridge section 1 mi to an intersection with a wider ski road moving right (N) toward Pigtail Peak (on the ski area). Make a note that this will be the return route for the loop trail down the more open slopes to finish. Continue ¾ mi, crossing ski runs under a chair lift to stay on the PCT proper to the top of that four-person chair lift.
Curious elk near the TH on White Pass in Washington.
See Mount Rainier as big as life and finally see the open summit plateau of Hogback Mountain further up the ridge past the top of the next chair lift you’ll be aiming for. You could make a beeline toward the top of the lift by crossing a steep meadow; or stay on the PCT hugging closer to the ridgeline on the left with better views of a large, sharp prominent rock just E of a little bump on the ridge, then meet the other path on the more prominent ridge ahead. Either way it’s only ¼ mi or so from the top of that four-person chair lift to where you should leave the PCT at about 6200 ft to stay on the high ridge. The other option is to stay on the PCT briefly as it leaves the ridge left (S) and then scramble up a very steep, rocky gully to the right (W) to a small saddle between the double summit area with no trail. Both options are the steepest part of the hike, the ridge crest being preferential with constant views of the Goat Rocks and others.
Deep snow still covers most of the route into late June with ice finally melting off Ginnette Lake.
From the high ridge, right to left as you see them, are Chimney Rock, Mount St. Helens, Johnson Peak, Hawkeye Point, Old Snowy Mountain, Ives Peak, Mount Adams, and Gilbert Peak! No path necessary to finish the thinning ridge from the fake or first summit (which only appears higher as is usually the case when summits are close to the same elevation) a hundred yards to the highest point crossing a saddle halfway. There is some volcanic pumice-like solid rock, low pines, and a few old gnarls to negotiate without trouble. More fantastic vistas with Twin Peaks, Round Mountain, and Clear and Rimrock Lakes to the NE; Mount Rainier is directly behind the lower summit to the NW. Be careful through late spring with snow cornices building near thin sections of ridge from the protuberant boulder below to the peaks.
Return roughly the same way 1¾ mi down to the ski road intersection near Pigtail Peak. Consider taking the loop, which is only slightly