ORIENTATION
The Garonne River divides Bordeaux in two parts, with its center on the western bank. Les Quais, the riverfront boardwalk, stretches between the two main bridges, Pont de Pierre and Pont Jacques Chaban Delmas. Along Les Quais, you’ll find everything from skate parks to green spaces to restaurants. The main attraction along the boardwalk, however, is the city center at Place de la Bourse, in front of which is Miroir d’Eau. The city center, also called Vieille Ville (Old City) opens up to Promenade Sainte-Catherine, the longest pedestrian street in Europe lined with cafés, restaurants, and boutiques. To the north of Vielle Ville is the Triangle D’Or neighborhood, the wealthiest area in all of Bordeaux, where you’ll find three main boulevards at have vertices at Le Grande Théàtre, Place Gambetta, and Place Tourny. North of Vielle Ville is the famous Chartrons district, known for its former status as a port city and even farther north is an industrial area, which is home to Base Sous Marine and the decanter-shaped Cité du Vin. South of Vielle Ville is the Saint Michel neighborhood, known for having the highest concentration of ethnic food in Bordeaux. On the eastern bank of the Garonne is the Bastide area, where you can find outdoor spaces like Darwin Ecosystème.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE
If flying, you’ll land at Bordeaux-Mérignac Airport, which is 9km from the city center. The Jetbus (€7) runs directly between the airport and the main train station, Gare Saint Jean, every 30min. The ride itself is 30min. To save money (like the responsible budget-conscious backpacker that you are), you can take the Line 1 bus (€1.40) to Gare Saint-Jean. If arriving by train, you’ll dock at Gare Saint-Jean, which is a 15min. tram ride away from the city center. Take tram line C to Place de la Bourse (€1.60).
GETTING AROUND
The tramway is the most convenient mode of public transportation in the city. Trams depart roughly every 5min. from street-side stops (single ride €1.60). The most essential tram lines are Line C, which runs to the city center (Place de la Bourse) and Line B, which runs to Cité du Vin and Cathédrale Saint-Andre. Another option is to use Bordeaux’s city bikes, VCub, with docking stations throughout the city (24hr pass €1.60). Take the ferry (€2) acro, which runs from the Stalingrad station on the eastern bank to Quinconces on the eastern. Also, the Transports Bordeaux Métropole (TBM) operates over 80 bus lines that serve the greater urban Bordeaux area.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Tourist Offices: 12 Cours du 30 Juillet; 05 56 00 66 00; www.bordeaux-tourisme.com; open M-Sa 9:30am-1pm and 2pm-7pm
Banks/ATMs/Currency Exchange: There are BNP branches with accessible located near the Opéra and in the Chartrons district (BNP Paribas Bordeaux: 40 Cours du Chapeau-Rouge; 820 82 00 01; open M-F 9am-5:30pm).
Post Offices: La Poste Bordeaux (29 Allée de Tourny; open M 9am-6pm, Tu 10am-6pm, W-F 9am-6pm, Sa 9am-noon)
Public Restrooms: You can easily find public restrooms, labeled “Toilettes,” along the banks of the Garonne River. There is one located just in front of Place de la Bourse.
Internet: Bordeaux is covered with public Wi-Fi spots. Simply click “Wifi Bordeaux” on your phone network. Free Wi-Fi is also offered in all municipal buildings, including the tourist office.
BGLTQ+ Resources: LGBT Association of Aquitaine; www.le-girofard.org
EMERGENCY INFORMATION
Emergency Number: 112
Police: Hôtel de Police, Commissariat Central (23 Rue François de Sourdis; 05 57 85 77 77; open daily 24hr)
US Embassy: There is a US consulate in Bordeaux (89 Quai des Chartrons; 01 43 12 48 65).
Rape Crisis Center: Rape Crisis Network Europe (www.inavem.org; 01 45 88 19 00)
Hospitals: Hôpital Saint André (1 Rue Jean Burguet; 05 56 79 56 79; open daily 24hr)
Pharmacies: Pharmacie (30 Pl. des Capucins; 05 56 91 62 66; open daily 24hr)
ACCOMMODATIONS
20 Rue Borie; 06 65 52 16 80; www.hostel20.fr; reception open 24hr
Staying at Hostel 20 feels like you’re staying at someone’s house. And that’s kind of because you are. The hostel allows young 20-somethings from across the globe to volunteer their time working in exchange for free extended lodging. As a result, Hostel 20 creates a quirky, homey, and social atmosphere, complete with regular beds (read: no bunks!), cheap rental bikes (€3-5), and nightly hostel home-cooked dinners (€5). Meals include paella, pasta, and breakfast for dinner at a much-cheaper price than any restaurant in the surrounding Chartrons district. The hostel boasts a great location and provides a surge protector to every bed in the rooms, but loses points since the doors of the actual dormitories don’t actually lock, so be sure to lock your valuables in the small lockers in each individual room.
i Dorms from €27; reservation recommended; BGLTQ+ friendly; no wheelchair accessibility; Wi-Fi; linens, towels included; lockers available; laundry €4; breakfast €2
AUBERGE DE JEUNESSE BORDEAUX ($$)
22 Cours Barbey; 05 56 33 00 70
It may come as a surprise that there are only two hostels in Bordeaux, but Auberge de Jeunesse was the only one until Hostel 20 sprouted in 2015. An organized and functional place to stay, the hostel provides comfortable lodging with an expansive kitchen in which you can prepare your own meals to avoid steep restaurant prices. Although the hostel boasts bright pink and lime green common areas and a balcony, it is less social than its budget-accommodation counterpart, but makes up for this with its convenient location, which is just 10 minutes from the city center on foot.
i Dorms from €24; reservation recommended; Wi-Fi; linens included; lockers available; full kitchen
SIGHTS
CULTURE
LA CITÉ DU VIN
134 Quai de Bacalan; 05 56 16 20 20; www.laciteduvin.com/fr; open daily 9:30am-7:30pm
La Cité du Vin is an impressive architectural feat: the structure itself is modeled after a decanter, so you already know that this glitzy, brand-spanking-new sight isn’t going to disappoint. Established in 2016, Cité du Vin quickly overshadowed its younger sister, Musée du Vin et du Négoce, with its extensive exhibits about wine, modern features, and wine tastings. At the end of the day, we appreciated the smaller sibling a little