Police: Mike Tripala br.6; 192
US Embassy: The US Embassy is located in Zagreb at Ul. Thomasa Jeffersona 2; 1 6612 200; open M-F 8am-4:30pm
Hospitals: Hospital Firule (Spinciceva 1; 21 556 111)
Pharmacies: Bacvice Kralja Zvonimira 2; 21 482 830
ACCOMMODATIONS
Poljana Tina Ujevica 3/3; 098 480 855; reception open 24hr
Sweet, sweet air-conditioning. If you’ve been missing this American staple, Split Wine Garden Hostel will hook you up. Their recently renovated rooms and relaxed wine terrace vibes are a nice break from the ubiquitous Split party hostel. Located on the Marjan side of Split, it’s a longer haul from the train-ferry-bus station and not ideal for a late arrival. Regardless, the staff is friendly and the vine-covered terrace is a perfect space to get to know fellow travelers.
i Dorms from 160 kn; reservation recommended; Wi-Fi; linens included; towels included; luggage storage
DESIGN HOSTEL GOLI+BOSI ($$)
Morpurgova Poljana; 021 510 999; www.golibosi.com; reception open 24hr
What is a design hostel? We sure don’t know and we doubt that Goli+Bosi knows either. But it’s got futuristic lockers that open with a keypad, optical-illusion-style hallways lathered in yellow, and a swanky restaurant-bar combo. The hostel is ultra clean and the ensuite bathroom and shower are a definite plus. The downside is that Goli+Bosi feels more like a hotel than a hostel with hella impersonal staff and a lack of community bonding spaces.
i Dorms from 200 kn; reservation recommended; Wi-Fi; linens included; towels included
HOSTEL KISS ($)
Stari Pazar 2; 095 838 4437; reception open 9am-1pm and 3pm-9pm
That moment when you run out of money but your plane doesn’t leave until next week is the kind of desperation that should lead you to Split’s budget king: Hostel Kiss. Though not major, the general mustiness may worsen any allergies, colds, or stuffy noses you arrived with and you’ll have to hold the shower head yourself, but it’s survivable as long as you don’t forget your keys after 9pm. If that happens you’ll be stuck with a locked door and forced to sleep on the streets of Split until the police make you move—all hypothetically speaking of course. But granted, it’s half the price of every other hostel in town and has a helpful staff.
i Dorms from 140 kn in summer, 100 kn during off-season; Wi-Fi; linens included; towels included
SIGHTS
CULTURE
Trg Gaje Bulata 1; 021 306 908; www.hnk-split.hr
The performances at the Croatian National Theater are truly straight out of Amadeus. The 1893 theater itself was constructed in Neoclassical style and its interior is reminiscent of the great opera houses of Europe, down to the red velvet chairs and gilded box seating. Throughout the year, the theater puts on operas, ballets, and concerts—all at dirt cheap prices. So don your cleanest, least wrinkled shirt and try not to be intimidated by the elegantly dressed and music-loving locals as you take a break from the sun and soak up some culture.
i Tickets from 25 kn; wheelchair accessible; dress code semi-formal
LANDMARKS
CATHEDRAL OF ST. DOMINUS
Ul. Kraj Svetog Duje 5; open M-Sa 8am-7pm, Su 12:30pm-6:30pm
Split’s center fits entirely within the former Palace of Diocletian, and, within what was Diocletian’s mausoleum, is the Cathedral of Split. This must-see is one of the most important monuments remaining of the Roman Empire and a UNESCO World Heritage Site (casual, we know). From the many parts of the complex, we recommend seeing the cathedral itself and the bell tower. Not for the faint of mind, body, or spirit, prepare yourself for the hike up remarkably small steps and be rewarded with stunning city views. The main building of the cathedral dates back to the time of Diocletian, but has undergone extensive renovation, with architectural elements from the Romanesque and Baroque periods.
i Admission 45 kn; limited wheelchair accessibility
PROKURATIVE (TRG REPUBLIKA)
Trg Republika; open daily 24hr
The Prokurative is St. Mark’s Square minus all the pigeons. The Republic Square, built in the 1880s, is heavily inspired (read: plagiarized) from Venetian sources. Located just outside the confines of Diocletian’s Palace, the reddish-pink buildings frame the ocean in a three-sided piazza filled with cafés. During the summer season, be on the look-out for concerts and other public events frequently held here.
i Free; wheelchair accessible
MUSEUMS
Šetaliśte Ivana Meštrovića 46; 021 340 800; www.mestrovic.hr; open Tu-Sa 9am-4pm, Su 10am-3pm
Ivan Meštrović is the one Croatian artist you’ve never heard of, but really should have. He’s essentially Rodin, minus most of the fame. The little celebrity status that Meštrović enjoyed, however, was enough to afford a giant villa and, once you’re that rich, does fame truly matter? Ponder this philosophical question while gazing at Meštrović’s mesmerizing secessionist sculptures located inside the villa, out in the surrounding garden, and in a chapel 200m down the street. The artist’s works were influenced heavily by religious and classical themes, so you can finally put those years of high school Latin (and Sunday school) to use.
i Admission 15 kn
MUZEJ GRADA SPLITA (SPLIT CITY MUSEUM)
Papaliceva 1; 021 360 171; www.mgst.net; open M-Su 8:30am-9pm
The Split City Museum is a giant guide to all the history you’ll experience but fail to fully understand in downtown Split. Something we learned, for example: locals used to fear the Egyptian sphinxes brought by our homie, Emperor Diocletian, because they thought the sphinxes cast bad luck. The museum’s collection covers Split’s history from start to present and the building is an attraction in itself. The second floor’s Gothic ceiling, for example, is one of the few remaining pieces of Gothic architecture in the city.
i Admission 20 kn, students 10 kn
OUTDOORS
Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 25; open daily 24hr
While you can’t have stacks on stacks on stacks because Split will drain your wallet, you can have stairs on stairs