i Admission €8, students €2, seniors €6, free on every first W of the month after 1pm; last entry 30min. before closing; wheelchair accessible
OUTDOORS
PARC DU CINQUANTENAIRE
Av. de la Joyeuse Entrée; www.brussels.info/parc-du-cinquantenaire/
Sure, Paris has that one triumphal arch. Brussels, on the other hand, has a monument consisting of not one, not two, but three arches, dedicated to glorifying Belgium’s independence. This massive structure, from which a huge Belgian flag flies, is the centerpiece of the Parc du Cinquantenaire. Behind it are a number of museums exploring everything from art to autos to the army. In front are dogs prancing, children playing, and Brussels’ corporate titans picnicking on their lunch breaks. Just watch out for the impeccably manicured gardens: you could knock a tooth out on one of those perfectly square hedges.
i Free; wheelchair accessible
FOOD
Rue Sainte-Catherine 45; 25 13 11 92; www.vishandelnoordzee.be; open Tu-Sa 8am-6pm, Su 11am-8pm
The only way to get fish soup fresher than that of Noordzee would be to drink your own goldfish straight out of its bowl. However, we can guarantee that Noordzee’s option will be a lot tastier than poor little Goldie. This lunch spot in Place Saint-Catherine doubles as a fish market, so you know exactly where your deliciously grilled fish and expertly fried calamari come from. Eat at high standing tables in the square, with a view of Saint-Catherine Church to one side and the bustling activities of the fish sellers to the other. A filling bowl of fish soup goes for only €5, and you can pair it with a glass of wine for just another €2.75.
i Fish soup €5, other entrées from €6; gluten-free options available; wheelchair accessible
Rue Jules Van Praet 36; 25 02 64 22; www.fannythai.com; open M-F noon-3pm and 6pm-11:30pm, Sa-Su noon-11:30pm
The smell that greets you upon entering Fanny Thai is essentially the equivalent of tantalizing aromatic spices having a ménage à trois in your nose. We’re convinced this is some of the best Thai food you can get outside Thailand, beating out the numerous other Thai restaurants at the fun and bustling Place Saint-Gery. The curries are warm and wonderful and the soup is full of complex flavors that will render you incapable of enjoying a can of Campbell’s ever again. Try an entree for €12-13, or upgrade to a three-course fixed menu at around €18.
i Three-course menus €18, curries and other entrées from €12; gluten-free, vegan, and vegetarian options available; wheelchair accessible
BIA MARA ($$)
Rue du Marché aux Poulets 41; 25 02 00 61; www.biamara.com; open M-Th noon-2:30pm and 5:30pm-10:30pm, F-Su noon-10:30pm
When you think of fish and chips, you may think of greasy hunks of battered cod or British people in a sports pub. But Bia Mara does fish and chips its own way. First choose a batter, like the delicious lemon basil tempura. Next, pick from out-of-the-box sauces such as garlic truffle, thyme, or the classic tartar (they’re not entirely insane). Finally, add sides like hot ink squid or popcorn mussels and a rhubarb ginger lemonade. The fresh and flavorful fish comes with thick seaweed-salted potatoes, too.
i Fish and chips from €12; limited wheelchair accessibility
LE CORBEAU ($)
Rue Saint-Michel 18; 22 19 52 46; www.lecorbeau.be; open M-Th 10am-midnight, F-Sa 10am-4am
Le Corbeau strikes us as the kind of place that has a lot of regulars: a large screen broadcasts sports in the back of the restaurant, the drinks are cheap, and there’s a sign on the wall that says “free beer tomorrow.” Old
Hmovie and beer posters decorate the establishment and give it a vintage feel. The real draw, however, is the daily lunch special. For only €9.50, guests can have the “plat du jour,” which is an entrée, and a choice of either the daily soup or dessert.
i Lunch special €9.50; vegan and vegetarian options available
NIGHTLIFE
CAFÉ BELGA
Pl. Eugène Flagey 18; 26 40 35 08; open M-Th 7:30am-2am, F 7:30am-3am, Sa 8am-4am, Su 8am-midnight
You know that friend who never seems stressed out? They’d definitely go to Café Belga. This laid-back bar is always packed, inside and out, with beer-drinking students and young professionals pretending they don’t have work tomorrow. The wide square of Place Flagey sprawls out next to the bar, its sides bordered by weeping willows and a tall church. By night, the indoor tables are removed and the bar turns into a packed nightclub. Luckily, the free entry and €4 draft beers are there to stay.
i Beers from €3
PLACE DU LUXEMBOURG
European Quarter; hours vary by venue
This square, known affectionately as “Place Lux” or even “Plux” by its dedicated fans, completely transforms on Thursday nights. The police even block it off for some government-sanctioned tomfoolery. That’s because hundreds of young professionals from the surrounding European institutions, including the European Parliament, spill into it right after work to blow off steam. Some are even still wearing suits. Bars and clubs line the square, but if you really want to live like a local, buy some cheap beers from the convenience store down the street and claim a place in the grass. You’ll find plenty of English-speaking friends, since much of the European Quarter’s international crowd uses English at work.
i Venue prices vary; limited wheelchair accessibility
GHENT
Coverage by Emily Corrigan
Since people settled the area at the confluence of the Lys and Scheldt rivers, a long and fascinating heritage has unfolded. From a center for cloth trade during the Middle Ages, to the home of influential Flemish painters, to playing a hand in ending the War of 1812, this city has both history and modern-day appeal. Now a mid-sized northern Belgian city, Ghent boasts scenic inland waterways, old guild houses with stepped gables, a castle, and a skyline defined by the towering spires of a cathedral. It’s a charming place to visit, but seems like an even more charming place to live. Local life buzzes around you, on bikes and in waterside cafés. Toss in some niche bars, historic squares, and fascinating museums and this city has the whole package.
ORIENTATION