Horse Agility throws all this nonsense out the window and shows you how to go right back to the beginning—back to basics—and think again how you can interact with a horse. To be any good, you need to start from this place. Horses do not need “collars” and “leads” all the time; they will come when you call them and happily do so if you ask in a language they understand. This brings me to a leading question: How do you know when a horse is “happy”? Maybe he doesn’t mind having his mouth tied closed or having his sides whipped? How can you tell? Well, you need to read the horse. You need to know what he looks like when he is—and isn’t—enjoying himself.
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fig. 1.1 a
fig. 1.1 b
1.1 A & B The sport of Horse Agility is one of purpose—the work you do teaching him to handle obstacles in an agility course can be applied to a wide variety of real-life circumstances.
There are two personalities in this partnership: that of the horse and of the handler. The handler gets to choose whether or not she wants to do agility, but the horse does not. Would he choose to? The only way to find out is to start and see what he “says” about it.
So that you can be honest in your answer to this question, the first step is to learn what a “happy” and an “unhappy” horse looks like, and then let him go and see if he still wants to join in the agility fun!
The big advantage of Horse Agility in the way that I have developed it as a training tool is that it can prepare the horse for the real world. It is far better than simply accustoming him to the sights and sounds of flags and cones before venturing out onto the road, for example (figs. 1.1 a & b). You can use the techniques outlined in this book to help you and your horse get used to all manner of real-life situations.
This book shows you how to be safe and become really good at Horse Agility—that is, if you follow it through in the way I have outlined.
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CHAPTER 2
general equipment
You are the most important piece of equipment in the sport of Horse Agility! However, you do need to learn to use some tack and training aids to ensure your safety. Always use your common sense around horses (that is, old-fashioned gut instinct) and avoid doing anything you don’t feel confident about. When you understand horses and the rules by which they play, handling them on the ground not only becomes safe, it actually becomes enjoyable for everyone—including the horse.
Helmet
Whether you wear a safety helmet or hat or not when doing Horse Agility is something you should consider carefully. Your choice will depend on a number of things:
• How well trained is the horse? If he is in the early days of his training he may still be working on a lead rope, thus close to you, which means he could push you over or hit you on the head with his head.
• How well trained is the handler? Do you know how to keep the horse at a safe distance? Are you very young or older?
I always wear a safety helmet when riding, but I only wear one when I’m working on the ground if I don’t know the horse, or I know he needs a bit more training. I believe that once the horse is trained and understands the rules a helmet becomes superfluous: Horse Agility is no more dangerous than Dog Agility when done properly.
Boots and Gloves
Early in training, wear suitable footwear such as strong boots for protection if the horse treads on you. When the horse is trained to higher levels, you should be able to get by with sneakers (trainers). I always wear gloves when working with a lead rope: Should the horse decide to “leave” you, then he can’t burn half the skin off your hands with the lead rope (fig. 2.1 and see p. 9 for more about lead ropes).
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fig. 2.1
2.1 This handler is properly outfitted with suitable safety gear, including a helmet, gloves, sturdy shoes, and a long lead rope.
Tack
No matter how much tack you use, it is only as good as the person using it, so be knowledgeable. Ask yourself:
•. Is it right for your horse?
• Do you have the skills to use it?
• Is the item or gadget really necessary or just a shortcut that will only mask a problem—not cure it?
Halter and Lead Rope
Most horses are perfectly safe and happy in a flat nylon or leather halter (headcollar), but occasionally you may need to resort to something stronger, such as a rope halter or a “pressure” control halter, for retraining purposes (figs. 2.2 a–d). These “stronger” halters are designed to get the horse to listen to you and to know there are signals being conveyed to him through the rope that he needs to respond to. Once he’s been trained (or retrained), use a flat nylon or leather version before moving on to nothing
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fig. 2.2 a
[no image in epub file]
fig. 2.2 b
fig.2.2 c
fig. 2.2 d
2.2 A–D There are several headstall (headcollar) options when first training (or retraining) a horse prior to working him free. Most horses are safe and happy in a plain leather or flat nylon halter (A). When transitioning from a headstall to nothing at all, you can first use a rope round the neck (B), and if you need more control during early work, you can us a rope halter (C), or a patented “control” halter (D) before moving on to a plain leather one.
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fig. 2.3
2.3 You need to use a longer lead rope than you might be used to—ideally around 10 feet (2.5 meters) in length (see fig. 2.2 a). A longe line, as shown here, is too much line to work with and a safety hazard.
at all. If you rely on the halter rather than communication to control your horse, it is unlikely that you will ever be able to work him free.
You also need a longer lead rope than you may be used to: You need to create a safe distance between you and your horse so that you both have room to work. A rope at least 10 feet (2.5 meters) long is sufficient for training (see fig. 2.2 A). A normal longe line is too long because it can become wrapped around your feet; anything less than 10 feet isn’t long enough to allow the horse to move freely (fig. 2.3).
Other Horse Equipment
When training, the horse can wear a blanket (rug) or sheet to protect him from the elements and pests, if necessary. In some cases, protective leg boots or wraps may be desirable.
Training Area
Access to a round pen or similar area not
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fig. 2.4 a