Abundant Beauty. Marianne North

I am told it is a favourite walk of the Emperor’s, who found the old German naturalist a pleasanter companion than many in the world below. When I was there this old man was dying, and his pretty place would soon be a ruin. Already his treasures of moths, books, birds, and butterflies were half destroyed by mould and devouring ants; even the bridge that crossed the cascade and the path up to his house were falling away. I never felt anything more sad.

      Petropolis seemed full of idle people and gossip, and it was thought rather shocking and dangerous for me to wander over the hills alone; wild stories were told of runaway slaves, etc. I felt out of place there, and got more and more homesick but determined to have at least a glimpse of the Organ Mountains before I went. I was told the way was most difficult, and even dangerous; neither mules nor guide could be got. Still I persevered, and finally heard of a mason at Petropolis who knew the way and would like a change of air and a holiday, but he could only spare four days. Mr. M. kindly lent him a famous old mule, and sent it on the day before to San Antonio, where I was also to find a horse; and, in spite of the persistent rain at Petropolis, I and the mason started by the Juiz de Fora coach at six o’clock and were set down about sixteen miles on the road at a venda near a bridge, where we saddled our steeds and mounted, my small bag and paintbox being fastened to the crupper of my guide’s mule.

      My horse was of the Rosinante order, very bony and old, with two great gaping wounds on her shoulders caused by the bites of vampire bats, into which the flies walked in the most distressing manner. After winding along two or three valleys, we began to mount in good earnest. The only danger on our path was from the hanging wreaths of bamboo, and the acacia called cat’s paw, which had been long untrimmed, and might easily do serious damage to the faces of unwary travellers. My guide used his long knife, and I met with no accident, and soon reached the top of the pass, having left all rain and humidity at Petropolis. It was a curious view and well worth some trouble to see; but the “difficulties and dangers” we in vain searched for.