Justine understood this. She wiped her hands on a nearby towel, gave Prego an affectionate hug, and climbed the steps toward the terrace. Their conversation about World War II could wait for another day.
The two of us are a country under embargo, living on parentheses and silences, on blackouts, so that when the lights finally come on again, we have already forgotten what to say to each other.
—Elisa Biagini, Italian Poet
IN 1927, TWO IMPORTANT visitors came to Cerveteri: Benito Mussolini and D.H. Lawrence. Mussolini demanded that a road be built between the village and the necropolis so that visitors could access the tombs of the great Etruscan warriors, forebears and teachers of the triumphant Romans. D.H. Lawrence came in search of Etruscan Places, his loving tale about the Etruscans he loved—destroyed, he felt, by the crude Romans. Both men were captivated by the Etruscans, but they came with different assumptions and left with disparate idealistic convictions.
Like all Etruscan towns, Cerveteri—or Caere, as it was called then—sat on a craggy hill overlooking a valley and the sea beyond. The volcanic rock, or tufa, wall surrounding the village was now nearly smothered by trees and vines growing up the escarpment from the ravine below. Three major volcanic actions had loosened and split the tufa walls and the tumuli—domed structures that housed multiple tombs—beyond. Partially buried under these natural concealments were ancient carved lions, horses, birds, and the tools used to make them. A citadel rose above the wall, created in the classic design that has marked the Italian landscape for 2,500 years.
During the Middle Ages, a huge iron gate secured the wall. As centuries passed, the gate opened and the town welcomed visitors—although few came. Even today, at the tourist bureau, no one spoke English. Shop owners seemed surprised by other languages, and residents watched outsiders with curiosity, even though UNESCO promoted the Necropolis of the Banditaccia of Cerveteri as the “patrimony of humanity, an exceptional testimonial to the Etruscan civilization.”
Having spent the night in Viterbo, two hours to the northeast, Justine drove up the sharp incline to the ancient town appreciating the late March warmth. She parked her sapphire 2004 Alfa Romeo Spider across from Santa Maria Maggiore Church. She stood for a moment, examining the city map. She walked north across the bridge leading up to the Piazza Risorgimento. A Renaissance clock tower rose on the west end. To the left, a restaurant glowing pink and yellow in the morning light, matching turret and potted trees surrounding outdoor tables and umbrellas, which protruded into the square. An adjacent pharmacy and a vegetable market shared an edifice painted with elaborate murals of medieval life. A contrasting, stern gray government building towered over the piazza’s south side; Justine wondered if it still hosted dungeons and guillotines.
She had agreed to meet her father at one of the tables under the clock tower, an imaginative structure of marble and bricks with double pillars that felt reminiscent of Disneyland. A coat of arms boasted a wide-antlered buck.
A young woman emerged from the corner café and took Justine’s order for two double cappuccinos.
“Love those boots,” she said as her father approached. “Cappuccino?”
“You always know what I like,” said Morgan, sitting down and flinging one leg over his knee so she could get a closer look at the boots. “Had them made in Cuzco.”
“Are we going out to the dig this morning?” she asked, running her palm over the polished buckskin surface. “These won’t look so new in a couple of hours.”
“They clean up easily enough,” he said, brushing a slight residue of dust from the toes. “But let me fill you in before we head out. Yesterday big equipment was brought in to dig ten feet down around two of the tumuli identified as interesting by aerial photos. So . . . we might be able to get into the troughs today.”
“What made the photos interesting?”
“Formations deep under the tumuli. They look like geometrical designs. But I’ve been fooled before. From the air, ordinary rock can form outlines that look man-made.”
“I love being in on the beginning of a mystery . . . what do you expect to find?” She moved her chair slightly to avoid the direct sun and took off her sunglasses. Her amber eyes glistened.
“Probably not much.” Morgan was forever understating his excitement. “The tombs there already stretch over four centuries. Caere was an active community in the ninth century BCE and 200 years later it dominated the Tyrranean coast, including the Tolfa Mountains and Lake Bracciano, which you would have passed yesterday coming into Viterbo. But I’m hoping for a few surprises. Perhaps the tomb of an Etruscan king.” He laughed.
“I didn’t think you liked surprises.” She was incredulous.
“Only in archaeology, honey.” He grinned, finishing off his cappuccino, picking up his clipboard, and pushing back his chair.
They rode in his jeep to the necropolis five miles away. Sycamore, oak, and cypress created a canopy over the road into grounds adorned by white narcissus and salmon and ivory lilies, once known as asphodel. Persephone, the daughter of Zeus, had claimed the asphodel lily as her own during the half of her life she could spend on Earth. Abducted by Hades, she was condemned to spend the other half in his underworld. Justine compared the fable to her own life. Maybe Egypt was my underworld. I was smothered in an earthquake, run off the road, kidnapped, and kicked out of the country. But there were exquisite moments as well. Amir . . .
Morgan parked the Jeep near the miniature train and tourist center. They walked through the public area. Mounds of verdant earth ran wild with dandelions and green brambles. A door on each side of the tumuli led to two separate tombs. The tumuli themselves rested on four-foot-high stone foundations crusty with lichen and fungi. Set about twenty feet apart on either side of a common walkway, they fashioned a comely neighborhood. No other necropolis in Italy lived so lightly on the land.
At the end of the path they stepped over a low-lying fence and approached two tumuli whose foundations were ringed by a deep trench.
“Olives were actually found in this one,” a young man was saying as he stepped out of a nearby tomb. “That’s why it’s called the Tomb of the Olives. Furbo, clever.” He held out his hand, stepped forward, and took Justine’s hand into his. “Riccardo,” he said.
“Riccardo Chia, our historian,” offered her father, by way of further introduction. He dug the toe of his boot into the earth.
Justine read her father’s fidgeting as contempt. “Delighted to meet you,” she said. “I’m always eager to meet a historian. So tell me, how difficult is it to work with my father?”
Riccardo blanched, but quickly recovered. “He’s son of a bitch,” he said in broken English. An open khaki shirt revealed a chest of dark brown hair and a small scar near his trachea. A careless ponytail rested on his shoulder like a squirrel’s tail. His eyes were a little too close together, and that and his scraggly eyebrows, almost touching, gave him a look of intense concentration. Two days’ growth obscured his narrow chin. “But I expect to learn an enormous amount from Dr. Jenner.” He shifted his feet like a boy who has overstepped his authority.
Another charmer, she thought. If rather odd-looking.
Her father touched the rim of his hat and raised his left eyebrow, obviously uncomfortable with Riccardo’s