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THE FLOUNDER.--This comes under the tribe usually denominated Flat-fish, and is generally held in the smallest estimation of any among them. It is an inhabitant of both the seas and the rivers, while it thrives in ponds. On the English coasts it is very abundant, and the London market consumes it in large quantities. It is considered easy of digestion, and the Thames flounder is esteemed a delicate fish.

       FRIED FLOUNDERS.

       260. INGREDIENTS.--Flounders, egg, and bread crumbs; boiling lard.

       Mode.--Cleanse the fish, and, two hours before they are wanted, rub them inside and out with salt, to render them firm; wash and

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       wipe them very dry, dip them into egg, and sprinkle over with bread crumbs; fry them in boiling lard, dish on a hot napkin, and garnish with crisped parsley.

       Time.--From 5 to 10 minutes, according to size. Average cost, 3d. each.

       Seasonable from August to November. Sufficient, 1 for each person. GUDGEONS.

       261. INGREDIENTS.--Egg and bread crumbs sufficient for the quantity of fish; hot lard.

       Mode.--Do not scrape off the scales, but take out the gills and inside, and cleanse thoroughly; wipe them dry, flour and dip them

       into egg, and sprinkle over with bread crumbs. Fry of a nice brown. Time.--3 or 4 minutes.

       Average cost. Seldom bought. Seasonable from March to July. Sufficient, 3 for each person. [Illustration: THE GUDGEON.]

       THE GUDGEON.--This is a freshwater fish, belonging to the carp genus, and is found in placid streams and lakes. It was highly esteemed by the Greeks, and was, at the beginning of supper, served fried at Rome. It abounds both in France and Germany; and is both excellent and numerous in some of the rivers of England. Its flesh is firm, well-flavoured, and easily digested.

       GURNET, or GURNARD.

       262. INGREDIENTS.--1 gurnet, 6 oz. of salt to each gallon of water.

       Mode.--Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and cut off the fins; have ready some boiling water, with salt in the above proportion; put the fish in, and simmer very gently for 1/2 hour. Parsley and butter, or anchovy sauce, should be served with it.

       Time.--1/2 hour.

       Average cost. Seldom bought.

       Seasonable from October to March, but in perfection in October.

       Sufficient, a middling sized one for 2 persons.

       Note.--This fish is frequently stuffed with forcemeat and baked.

       [Illustration: THE GURNET.]

       THE GURNET.-"If I be not ashamed of my soldiers, I am a souced gurnet," says Falstaff; which shows that this fish has been long known in England. It is very common on the British coasts, and is an excellent fish as food.

       BAKED HADDOCKS.

       263. INGREDIENTS.--A nice forcemeat (see Forcemeats), butter to taste, egg and bread crumbs.

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       Mode.--Scale and clean the fish, without cutting it open much; put in a nice delicate forcemeat, and sew up the slit. Brush it over with egg, sprinkle over bread crumbs, and baste frequently with butter. Garnish with parsley and cut lemon, and serve with a nice brown gravy, plain melted butter, or anchovy sauce. The egg and bread crumbs can be omitted, and pieces of butter placed over the fish.

       Time.--Large haddock, 3/4 hour; moderate size, 1/4 hour. Seasonable from August to February.

       Average cost, from 9d. upwards.

       Note.--Haddocks may be filleted, rubbed over with egg and bread crumbs, and fried a nice brown; garnish with crisped parsley.

       [Illustration: THE HADDOCK.]

       THE HADDOCK.--This fish migrates in immense shoals, and arrives on the Yorkshire coast about the middle of winter. It is an inhabitant of the northern seas of Europe, but does not enter the Baltic, and is not known in the Mediterranean. On each side of the body, just beyond the gills, it has a dark spot, which superstition asserts to be the impressions of the finger and thumb of St. Peter, when taking the tribute money out of a fish of this species.

       BOILED HADDOCK.

       264. INGREDIENTS.--Sufficient water to cover the fish; 1/4 lb. of salt to each gallon of water.

       Mode.--Scrape the fish, take out the inside, wash it thoroughly, and lay it in a kettle, with enough water to cover it and salt in the above proportion. Simmer gently from 15 to 20 minutes, or rather more, should the fish be very large. For small haddocks, fasten the tails in their mouths, and put them into boiling water. 10 to 15 minutes will cook them. Serve with plain melted butter, or anchovy sauce.

       Time.--Large haddock, 1/2 hour; small, 1/4 hour, or rather less. Average cost, from 9d. upwards.

       Seasonable from August to February.

       WEIGHT OF THE HADDOCK.--The haddock seldom grows to any great size. In general, they do not weigh more than two or three pounds, or exceed ten or twelve inches in size. Such are esteemed very delicate eating; but they have been caught three feet long, when their flesh is coarse.

       DRIED HADDOCK. I.

       265. Dried haddock should be gradually warmed through, either before or over a nice clear fire. Hub a little piece of butter over, just

       before sending it to table. II.

       266. INGREDIENTS.--1 large thick haddock, 2 bay-leaves, 1 small bunch of savoury herbs, not forgetting parsley, a little butter and pepper; boiling water.

       Mode.--Cut up the haddock into square pieces, make a basin hot by means of hot water, which pour out. Lay in the fish, with the bay-leaves and herbs; cover with boiling water; put a plate over to keep in the steam, and let it remain for 10 minutes. Take out the slices, put them in a hot dish, rub over with butter and pepper, and serve.

       Time.--10 minutes. Seasonable at any time, but best in winter.

       THE FINNAN HADDOCK.--This is the common haddock cured and dried, and takes its name from the fishing-village of Find-

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       horn, near Aberdeen, in Scotland, where the art has long attained to perfection. The haddocks are there hung up for a day or two in the smoke of peat, when they are ready for cooking, and are esteemed, by the Scotch, a great delicacy. In London, an imitation of them is made by washing the fish over with pyroligneous acid, and hanging it up in a dry place for a few days.

       RED HERRINGS, or YARMOUTH BLOATERS.

       267. The best way to cook these is to make incisions in the skin across the fish, because they do not then require to be so long on the fire, and will be far better than when cut open. The hard roe makes a nice relish by pounding it in a mortar, with a little anchovy, and spreading it on toast. If very dry, soak in warm water 1 hour before dressing.

       THE RED HERRING.--Red herrings lie twenty-four hours in the brine, when they are taken out and hung up in a smoking-house formed to receive them. A brushwood fire is then kindled beneath them, and when they are sufficiently smoked and dried, they are put into barrels for carriage.

       BAKED WHITE HERRINGS.

       268. INGREDIENTS.--12 herrings, 4 bay-leaves, 12 cloves, 12 allspice, 2 small blades of mace, cayenne pepper and salt to taste,

       sufficient vinegar to fill up the dish.

       Mode.--Take the herrings, cut off the heads, and gut them. Put them in a pie-dish, heads and tails alternately, and, between each layer, sprinkle over the above ingredients. Cover the fish with the vinegar, and bake for 1/2 hour, but do not use it till quite cold. The herrings may be cut down the front, the backbone taken out, and closed again. Sprats done in this way are very delicious.

       Time.--1/2 an hour. Average cost, 1d. each.

       TO CHOOSE THE HERRING.--The more scales this fish has, the surer the sign of its freshness. It should also have a bright and

       silvery look; but if red about the head, it is a sign that it has been dead for some time. [Illustration: THE HERRING.]

       THE HERRING.--The herring tribe are