for things when they are wanted, and in order that the whole apparatus of cooking may move with the regularity and precision of a well-adjusted machine;--all must go on simultaneously. The vegetables and sauces must be ready with the dishes they are to accompany, and in order that they may be suitable, the smallest oversight must not be made in their preparation. When the dinner-hour has arrived, it is the duty of the cook to dish-up such dishes as may, without injury, stand, for some time, covered on the hot plate
or in the hot closet; but such as are of a more important or recherche kind, must be delayed until the order "to serve" is given from the drawing-room. Then comes haste; but there must be no hurry,--all must work with order. The cook takes charge of the fish, soups, and poultry; and the kitchen-maid of the vegetables, sauces, and gravies. These she puts into their appropriate dishes, whilst
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the scullery-maid waits on and assists the cook. Everything must be timed so as to prevent its getting cold, whilst great care should
be taken, that, between the first and second courses, no more time is allowed to elapse than is necessary, for fear that the company in the dining-room lose all relish for what has yet to come of the dinner. When the dinner has been served, the most important feature in the daily life of the cook is at an end. She must, however, now begin to look to the contents of her larder, taking care to keep everything sweet and clean, so that no disagreeable smells may arise from the gravies, milk, or meat that may be there. These are the principal duties of a cook in a first-rate establishment.
In smaller establishments, the housekeeper often conducts the higher department of cooking (see 58, 59, 60), and the cook, with the assistance of a scullery-maid, performs some of the subordinate duties of the kitchen-maid.
When circumstances render it necessary, the cook engages to perform the whole of the work of the kitchen, and, in some places, a portion of the house-work also.
85. WHILST THE COOK IS ENGAGED WITH HER MORNING DUTIES, the kitchen-maid is also occupied with hers. Her first duty, after the fire is lighted, is to sweep and clean the kitchen, and the various offices belonging to it. This she does every morning, besides cleaning the stone steps at the entrance of the house, the halls, the passages, and the stairs which lead to the kitchen. Her general duties, besides these, are to wash and scour all these places twice a week, with the tables, shelves, and cupboards. She has also to dress the nursery and servants'-hall dinners, to prepare all fish, poultry, and vegetables, trim meat joints and cutlets, and do all such duties as may be considered to enter into the cook's department in a subordinate degree.
86. THE DUTIES OF THE SCULLERY-MAID are to assist the cook; to keep the scullery clean, and all the metallic as well as earthenware kitchen utensils.
The position of scullery-maid is not, of course, one of high rank, nor is the payment for her services large. But if she be fortunate enough to have over her a good kitchen-maid and clever cook, she may very soon learn to perform various little duties connected with cooking operations, which may be of considerable service in fitting her for a more responsible place. Now, it will be doubtless thought by the majority of our readers, that the fascinations connected with the position of the scullery-maid, are not so great as to induce many people to leave a comfortable home in order to work in a scullery. But we are acquainted with one instance in which the desire, on the part of a young girl, was so strong to become connected with the kitchen and cookery, that she absolutely left her parents, and engaged herself as a scullery-maid in a gentleman's house. Here she showed herself so active and intelligent, that she very quickly rose to the rank of kitchen-maid; and from this, so great was her gastronomical genius, she became, in a short space of time, one of the best women-cooks in England. After this, we think, it must be allowed, that a cook, like a poet, nascitur, non fit.
87. MODERN COOKERY stands so greatly indebted to the gastronomic propensities of our French neighbours, that many of
their terms are adopted and applied by English artists to the same as well as similar preparations of their own. A vocabulary of these is, therefore, indispensable in a work of this kind. Accordingly, the following will be found sufficiently complete for all ordinary purposes:--
EXPLANATION OF FRENCH TERMS USED IN MODERN HOUSEHOLD COOKERY.
ASPIC.--A savoury jelly, used as an exterior moulding for cold game, poultry, fish, &c. This, being of a transparent nature, allows
the bird which it covers to be seen through it. This may also be used for decorating or garnishing.
ASSIETTE (plate).--Assiettes are the small entrees and hors-d'oeuvres, the quantity of which does not exceed what a plate will hold. At dessert, fruits, cheese, chestnuts, biscuits, &c., if served upon a plate, are termed assiettes.--ASSIETTE VOLANTE is a dish which a servant hands round to the guests, but is not placed upon the table. Small cheese souffles and different dishes, which ought to be served very hot, are frequently made assielles volantes.
AU-BLEU.--Fish dressed in such a manner as to have a bluish appearance.
BAIN-MARIE.--An open saucepan or kettle of nearly boiling water, in which a smaller vessel can be set for cooking and warming. This is very useful for keeping articles hot, without altering their quantity or quality. If you keep sauce, broth, or soup by the fireside, the soup reduces and becomes too strong, and the sauce thickens as well as reduces; but this is prevented by using the bain-marie, in which the water should be very hot, but not boiling.
BECHAMEL.--French white sauce, now frequently used in English cookery.
BLANCH.--To whiten poultry, vegetables, fruit, &c., by plunging them into boiling water for a short time, and afterwards plunging
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them into cold water, there to remain until they are cold. BLANQUETTE.--A sort of fricassee.
BOUILLI.--Beef or other meat boiled; but, generally speaking, boiled beef is understood by the term. BOUILLIE.--A French dish resembling hasty-pudding.
BOUILLON.--A thin broth or soup.
BRAISE.--To stew meat with fat bacon until it is tender, it having previously been blanched.
BRAISIERE.--A saucepan having a lid with ledges, to put fire on the top.
BRIDER.--To pass a packthread through poultry, game, &c., to keep together their members.
CARAMEL (burnt sugar).--This is made with a piece of sugar, of the size of a nut, browned in the bottom of a saucepan; upon which a cupful of stock is gradually poured, stirring all the time a glass of broth, little by little. It may be used with the feather of a quill, to colour meats, such as the upper part of fricandeaux; and to impart colour to sauces. Caramel made with water instead of stock may be used to colour compotes and other entremets.
CASSEROLE.--A crust of rice, which, after having been moulded into the form of a pie, is baked, and then filled with a fricassee of white meat or a puree of game.
COMPOTE.--A stew, as of fruit or pigeons. CONSOMME.--Rich stock, or gravy. CROQUETTE.--Ball of fried rice or potatoes. CROUTONS.--Sippets of bread.
DAUBIERE.--An oval stewpan, in which daubes are cooked; daubes being meat or fowl stewed in sauce.
DESOSSER.--To bone, or take out the bones from poultry, game, or fish.
This is an operation requiring considerable experience.
ENTREES.--Small side or corner dishes, served with the first course.
ENTREMETS.--Small side or corner dishes, served with the second course.
ESCALOPES.--Collops; small, round, thin pieces of tender meat, or of fish, beaten with the handle of a strong knife to make them
tender.
FEUILLETAGE.--Puff-paste.
FLAMBER.--To singe fowl or game, after they have been picked.
FONCER.--To put in the bottom of a saucepan slices of ham, veal, or thin broad slices of bacon. GALETTE.--A broad thin cake.
GATEAU.--A cake, correctly speaking; but used sometimes to denote a pudding and a kind of tart.