This basic engine stand is one you may already have or can easily buy online or at Harbor Freight Tools. It’s rated at 1,000 pounds and costs $60. The engine stand yoke is specifically designed for a VW engine from Vintage World Tools ($91). The drip pan is actually a restaurant 19-gauge aluminum sheet pan measuring 18x26 inches (Thunder Group ALSP1826) and costs less than $7.
A VW air-cooled-specific engine stand is a must to rebuild an air-cooled VW engine. A bench-mounted one (EMPI 5001) is most economical and works if your bench can hold the weight. (Photo Courtesy EMPI Inc.)
A floor model engine stand (EMPI 5007) is more mobile and can be disassembled and stored for a less permanent solution. (Photo Courtesy EMPI Inc.)
A flywheel lock holds the flywheel to the case so the gland nut can be removed and installed. This lock (EMPI 5003) fits both 6V and 12V flywheels. (Photo Courtesy EMPI Inc.)
A clutch pilot tool can be purchased rather inexpensively, but those are usually made of plastic and aren’t very precise. Shown are two inexpensive alternatives. The top one is made of aluminum and was turned up on a small lathe. The smallest diameter must slip into the gland nut pilot bearing and the next step must be a slip fit into the clutch disc. The lower one is the input shaft from any VW Type 1 transmission. Most local VW shops will gladly sell you one inexpensively.
• Engine stand
• Flywheel lock
• Clutch pilot tool
• Crank gear puller
• Lifter holders
DIY Tools
Sometimes the simplest things can make life so much easier. Planning ahead and making sure you have the right equipment can make all the difference. These tools are ones you can make yourself to help with the engine rebuild.
If your buddy or the local machine shop doesn’t have a VW-specific crankshaft gear puller, your only other option is to buy one. Most shops charge $15 to $20 to remove the gears. This puller (EMPI 5714) costs $80 to $90. (Photo Courtesy EMPI Inc.)
These lifter holders are clips made to hold the lifters into the 3-4 side of the case while you set it down on the other half. Most people use grease or assembly lube to hold them in, but lifters may slide out of their bores and down into the other half. If you run into issues causing you to start over, it takes longer than it should. (Photo Courtesy EMPI Inc.)
An easy solution to holding the crankshaft safely is this vise mount made from an old flywheel gland nut and a short piece of angle iron. Cut the angle iron the width of your vise jaw and weld the nut to it. By screwing the holder into the crank and then clamping it into the vise, you have easy access to all the components attached to the crankshaft.
• Crankshaft vise mount
• Flywheel holder “Helping Hand”
• Crankshaft hand crank
This flywheel holder is made of four items and is a surefire way of removing a flywheel gland nut. Gather a 1 ⁷⁄₁₆-inch (36-mm) 3/4-inch drive socket, a 3/4-inch drive breaker bar, a length of pipe that will fit over the breaker bar, and a length of heavy angle iron with a couple holes drilled in it to fasten it to the flywheel. Drill one 3/8-inch hole near the end and another 7 ⁷⁄₁₆-inch from there. Length is unimportant but remember leverage is your friend.
It may not seem like a valuable tool, but you’ll feel like a professional cranking over your fresh rebuild with your very own hand crank. To make your own, bend a length of 3/8-inch rod and weld it to a crank pulley bolt. You can use an old 10-mm head stud if that’s what you have handy.
• Oil pressure relief plug tool
• Bent 13-mm box wrench
Shop Supplies
These items may seem obvious, but a list is a good way to make sure you are prepared.
The pressure relief screws can seem impossible to remove. That’s where this handmade tool will come in handy. You’ll need a 3/4-inch bolt that is 4 to 5 inches long. Grind the end until it fits snugly in the screw. It has a slight radius along the blade, as that is how it is in the screw head. Give this tool a couple sharp blows with a hammer to shock the relief plug loose.
A curved 13-mm wrench can be a time-saver when removing and installing a VW carburetor. You can pay for a fancy Snap-On version or make your own out of a generic 13-mm wrench and a propane torch.
Red Line makes a great engine assembly lube that works well for cam lobes, lifters, and lifter bores. All the direct, metal-to-metal components can benefit from this product.
General assembly lube that is easily applied can be made by mixing equal parts STP oil treatment and 20W50 motor oil. Sometimes it’s a little hard to get pumping out of the oil can, but it can be applied with one hand and without getting your hands all sticky.
Permatex aviation sealant has been around forever and is about the closest product available that mimics the original sealant used by the factory. It is primarily used to seal two machined surfaces without gaskets, such as the two engine case halves. It also works well for tacking gaskets in place during assembly.
• Assembly lube
• Permatex aviation sealer
• STP oil treatment
• Castrol GTX 20W50 motor oil
• Silicone gasket maker
RTV or silicone gasket sealer should be used very sparingly on a VW air-cooled build. Never use it to seal the two case halves together. Common uses are valve cover gaskets and pushrod tube seals. This Permatex product has great oil resistance and seals off those areas well.
Before you get too far into the process, make sure