Insert the bar into the axle tube after the socket and extension.
Align the bar inside the socket extension. The bar should be about level with the floor so the socket is squarely engaging the bearing race. Use a hammer to swiftly strike the end of the bar.
The front and then rear pinion races must be removed in this order. Steady the bar and squarely engage the race with the socket. You can use a deadblow hammer (shown) to drive out the race.
Critical Inspection
With the front race removed, you can see the inner race from the front side of the housing. Closely inspect for any abnormalities or damage. Differentials usually do not experience damage in this area.
A typical Chevy 10- or 12-bolt rebuild kit has the correct-size bearing races for all bearing surfaces. Inspect them carefully because damage in shipping and defects in manufacturing can occur. Make sure the new race surfaces are clean and true. Installed properly, the axle shafts will perform at their best. Inspect the races before you install them and make sure you use the correct race for the bearing.
Properly align the race within the bore so it is square. Place the socket against the edge of the race and make sure it’s square as well. Use a hammer to tap against the edge of the race and methodically and carefully drive it into the bore until it is firmly seated in position.
You can feel that the race is fully seated. This is what it looks like when it is seated.
Correctly installing the inner race can be difficult because it tends to twist and not stay square in the bore. The case surrounding the bore adds a level of difficulty. When installing the race, use a hammer and socket to slowly and carefully drive it down until it is fully seated in the bore.
The race is the machined surface on which the bearing rides, and it’s a replaceable component that is usually matched to the bearing. You can reuse the race if the bearings have not failed or been overheated, but you should replace the races when you change the bearings. The pinion bearing races are pressed into the housing. The larger inner bearing is pressed in from the carrier side while the smaller outer pinion bearing is pressed in from the yoke side. Special bearing installation tools are available, but it can be done with a hammer and an appropriate socket.
Wheel bearings are internal bearings and do not have races. Therefore, the bearing is pressed into the axle tube, just inside of the end plate, and the bearings ride on the axle shaft itself. Three types of bearings are offered for axles: standard, repair, and sealed.
Standard Bearings
These typical bearings are found in the axle assembly and are encased in a simple housing as a retainer. They are pressed into the axle tubes and the axle slides through them. Gear oil must be used to sustain the bearing’s lubricity. A seal must be installed after the bearing in order to cap the housing.
Repair Bearings
The bearing surface of the axle could be galled and pitted if your wheel bearings are worn out or damaged, the housing is run without oil, or the bearings have been over-heated. The rear axle assembly will howl from the bearing noise and the bearings won’t last very long. You have two choices: replace the axle or change to a repair bearing. These bearings use an integral seal that is shorter than a traditional seal, allowing the new bearings to ride farther out on the axle shaft itself, where there is no damage. These bearings are expensive and they don’t always work, but it is an option.
Sealed Bearings
This type of bearing seals off the axle without a separate seal. They are used with C-clip eliminator kits for 10- and 12-bolt units. Because of the design, sealed bearings must be pressed onto the axle. They are very good for controlling up-and-down motion because they have no play in them, unlike the standard and repair bearings. However, they are also quite expensive. The sealed bearings for GM 10- and 12-bolts require the above-mentioned eliminator kit.
Many home workshops do not have a hydraulic press, but if you do, it allows you to precisely press the races into the housing. Here, the socket and extension are aligned under the press. The next step is to slowly engage the press and watch it press the race into the bore.
C-Clip Conversions
C-clip eliminators are required for certain race classes and are often used for high-horsepower applications and off-road vehicles because the wheels on the axle remain with the vehicle. If a C-clip axle breaks, it allows the corresponding wheel to come out from under the car, and that is a very dangerous situation.
A C-clip eliminator replaces the C-clip and provides a much more secure way to retain the axle: The bearings are pressed onto the axles. A plate captures the bearing and also the axle when it is bolted to the housing end. In most cases, installing these eliminators does not require machining the housing, but stock axles do require machine work to ensure that the bearing can be pressed onto the correct