How to Swap Ford Modular Engines into Mustangs, Torinos and More. Dave Stribling. Читать онлайн. Newlib. NEWLIB.NET

Автор: Dave Stribling
Издательство: Ingram
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Жанр произведения: Сделай Сам
Год издания: 0
isbn: 9781613253991
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than looks.

      Reasons for a Modular Engine Swap

      Reasons to consider a modular engine swap for your next project extend far beyond the eye candy looks of the engine in your engine bay.

      Overhead Camshafts

      The Ford flathead had its camshaft in the same basic location as most overhead-valve engines, and moving the valves over the top of the cylinder heads improved the fuel and airflow as well as improved the combustion process. Pushrod engines still relied on valve lifters and pushrods to transfer camshaft motion to a set of rocker arms that pushed the valve in the opposite direction of the camshaft lobe lift. This means a lot of valvetrain inertia loss and energy loss through mechanical transfer. The overhead cams in the modular engine eliminate a large amount of this valvetrain loss by eliminating items such as the lifters (though they use a hydraulic slack adjuster to maintain valve lash) and reducing the size of the springs; the valvetrain is virtually maintenance free.

      Low-Friction Design

      Ever look at a new engine and wonder how they can run a thin, 5W-20 weight oil? Computer design and tighter tolerances mean you can run lighter-weight oils, which means it takes less energy to spin an oil pump, which means less lost power and better efficiency.

      No Distributor/Engine Timing

      Instead of a distributor, the modular engine features a computer that controls engine ignition with a greater range of fire. The computer can adjust the trigger and fire the spark plugs when it is optimal, rather than when a mechanically rotating electric circuit gets into position under the distributor cap. The new engines can even adjust the position of the camshaft relative to the crankshaft via a system called VCT (Variable Camshaft Timing) or TI-VCT (Twin Independent Variable Camshaft Timing). By retarding or advancing the camshaft timing, performance is optimized and the emissions can be reduced, eliminating some emission equipment for the drivetrain.

      Durable Bottom End

      The skirted block has a cross-bolted main cap system, similar to the big-block Ford FE 427’s. The head bolts extend down into the block webbing, providing additional strength. The results were evident as Ford pushed 15 pounds of boost through the stock engine in a 2013–14 GT500, and the performance world is pushing the envelope further.

The last U.S.-built Ford...

       The last U.S.-built Ford pushrod V-8 was a 5.0 small-block and was installed in the 2001 Ford Explorer. It came with a low-friction roller valvetrain, multi-port fuel injection, and distributorless ignition. It was still no match for the efficiency of the overhead cam modular engine, and the 39-year reign of the small-block Ford came to an end.

      The modular engine is an extremely reliable platform. The last-generation of the pushrod 5.0 V-8 was reliable as well and featured electronic ignitions and fuel injection. Installing a pushrod Ford small-block in your car is a popular swap that’s been done extensively for years, and the parts are available to make it a much cheaper option than a modular engine swap. But with the modular engine you get a pound-for-pound more efficient engine and drivetrain combination.

      Modern Diagnostic Support

      The latest computer systems can tell you exactly what is going on inside the engine, and aftermarket tuning and programmers make these engines scream at the same time they are efficient.

      One last thing to consider is that the last factory pushrod engines came out in 2001. Some new auto mechanics may have never worked on a pushrod Ford, tuned a carb, or even owned a timing light!

      What You Need to Know

      Before jumping into a modular engine project, some important guidelines and points need to be considered. Some outside services may be needed to assist in completing the project, and you need to understand your own skill set before beginning. My hope is that by buying this book that is just what you are doing. Perhaps you are looking at purchasing someone else’s project and need to find out if it is worth finishing. Knowledge is king, the more you know up front the more success you will have in the end.

      If you are looking for high horsepower, a traditional pushrod engine can make more horsepower for less money than a modular engine. It’s simple math: four cams instead of one, and the cams are more than just four times the price. While the modular engine can make a huge amount of power, and in some cases exceed the capabilities of older engines, it does come at a price. Fuel injection is more expensive than a carburetor, but fuel injection is much more versatile. Unlike installing a small-block in your favorite 1949 Mercury, it may not be possible to phone up your favorite parts supplier and order engine mounts. It is going to take more planning than most Ford builds, and more than some other company swaps that are old pushrod technology repackaged and re-badged.

      Fabrication

      Even if parts are available, many times fabrication to make these engines fit into specific chassis may be necessary. For example, some older Ford chassis have large shock towers that conflict with the wider engines, requiring them to be trimmed and re-welded. If you do not have the ability to make modifications, partner with a good fabricator before the project starts.

      Tuning and Computer Data

      As stated in Chapters 4 and 10, programming the computer is a critical part of making any modern engine perform to its peak. Unless you have a large base knowledge of fuel curves, air-fuel ratios, and oxygen sensor data, the best course of action is to find a reputable tuner and work with them during the project build. This is especially true if you will be making extensive modifications or installing custom components on the engine. It is critical to work with a tuner throughout the build.

      Getting Started

      Every time I get an inquiry about a modular engine swap, the first question I always ask is: what do you want to do with the car when you are done? Is your purpose for building this car reliability, racing and handling, horsepower, or a full-blown show car? An honest definition of what you want at the end is important to keep your project on target. If you are looking for a good daily driver that looks dynamite (on a modest budget), a high-horsepower supercharged Shelby 5.8 GT500 swap may not be the best choice.

      Three Little Questions

      Before you buy that half-done project or dream of that magazine car you just saw, decide what the true goal of this vehicle will be. It will help you answer these three questions:

      1. Which engine and transmission are you going to use?

      2. Which front suspension are you going to use?

      3. Which electronics package are you going to use?

      Once you have answered these three questions, a vast majority of the parts required to complete your project start showing themselves. Choosing your engine helps you determine the electronics package, choosing the electronics package helps you determine items such as the fuel system, and settling on the front suspension helps you decide on engine mounts and auxiliary equipment such as radiators and cooling.

      Engine and Transmission

      You need to select the best modular engine and transmission for your project, so you need to refer to Chapter 2 to make the best choice. Although I address some performance parts in this book, they are in reference to getting your project up and running and not a guide on how to build a monster engine. For that I am going to direct you to my bookshelf and some of the books I rely on: How to Build Max Performance 4.6-Liter Ford Engines by Sean Hyland, 4.6 and 5.4 Ford Engines: How to Rebuild by George Reid, and Ford 5.0 Coyote Engines: How to Build Max-Performance by Jim Smart.

      Back to my first question: what is the intent of this build? A four-cam 5.4-liter engine is wider and taller than a two-cam 4.6 engine, so it will cost more time and money to drop that engine into a confined space. If over-the-top horsepower is desired, let’s look at the taller and wider 5.4, 5.8, or perhaps a V-10 6.8. But if you want something a little more budget and daily-driving oriented, look at the engine that best fits your budget. The 4.6 and 5.0 Coyote have the same base dimensions and can make large amounts of horsepower in