In 2004, Scat released a cast stroker crank for the FE, and Genesis concurrently released the first cast-iron reproduction 427 blocks. I built one of the first big-inch FE engines that used both parts, topping the 505-ci package with an EFI system. The engine was covered in Hot Rod magazine’s July 2004 issue as the “676-Horsepower Dinosaur.”
I entered a similar 505-ci FE in the Jegs Engine Masters Challenge the following year, using the new Blue Thunder cylinder heads. Most of the competitors thought it was pretty cool to see one of them ol’ FE motors in the contest, and at first viewed it as a curiosity. Only after it made 752 hp on pump gas was it apparent that this was not a nostalgia piece; it was a modern engine with FE architecture. We finished 8th overall out of 50 entrants and got another magazine article as a result.
Jay Brown out of Minnesota entered his FE-powered 1969 Mach 1 into Hot Rod’s Drag Week competition in 2005. This is a grueling event covering more than 1,000 miles and five drag strips over a five-day period. The best overall average ET wins, and the Mach 1 took home the class win. Brown recently repeated the feat in a SOHC-powered 1964 Galaxie.
Subsequent FE race wins, engine builds, and project cars have gotten an increasing amount of media coverage from writers looking for something different. With a full array of parts now available, it is possible to build a complete 427 FE from scratch using all aftermarket pieces. You can build a 445-ci 390-based FE stroker that’ll get you 500 honest horsepower without breaking the budget. In a few short years, the FE engine has gone from near extinction to mainstream again. This is without question the best time in the 50-year history of the FE to build one for the street.
One of the first things to define is your anticipated budget for any engine building project. It is very, very easy to get overly excited about things when you start out, and go far beyond expected costs. The volume of unfinished project cars offered for sale should give you a clear idea of what happens if things get out of control.
A well-thought-out budget process involves several aspects. Some of these are rational, some are emotional, and all are important to consider before you grab that first wrench.
The cost and value of the vehicle and engine should be one consideration. If you are restoring a 1969 Shelby GT500, you can obviously justify investing a lot more into an engine than if you are building a scruffy 1976 F250 as a retro shop hauler. If that Shelby engine has a partial VIN stamping on it, you will want to salvage that block no matter how bad it may be. The worn-out 360 in the pickup has essentially zero market value and can be readily replaced if it needs significant repair. If you’re assembling a hot rod from scratch, you can set your budget in dollars and work backward from there.
The “risk versus reward” discussion is going to enter into the budget talk as well. When building a 300- to 400-hp engine, we do not need to consider the more exotic and expensive parts. The cheapest parts you can find are rarely (if ever) the right answer, but many common upgrades are fairly inexpensive in the context of a build’s eventual cost. Just remember that each decision usually spirals into the next one, and that you will likely be spending more than you anticipated in almost every case as things come together. Allow yourself some cushion on the financial side of things.
When deciding to rebuild an FE engine, many factors figure into the approach. Is it a garden-variety 360 truck engine? No need to go to any great length to save original components. If it is an original restoration candidate like this one, more thought must go into originality and value.
As you go through the budgeting process, you should also consider future plans and the ease of subsequent upgrades. If your project is bouncing up against the limits of your checkbook (as mine always do) think about the future. It’s far easier to swap out for nicer valve covers, intake, carb, or distributor after the engine has been installed and in service for a while than it is to move to forged pistons or change cam types.
Throughout the actual rebuild process, you will be faced with decisions about whether to reuse and rework the original parts or replace them with new items. Some of these are normal wear items and are assumed to be intuitive; you are going to acquire new piston rings, engine bearings, gaskets, timing set, and such. Some items are potentially reusable but should be replaced in the context of a true rebuild. In this book I am assuming a minimum of new pistons, new cam and lifters, and the complete machining and reconditioning of heads and block. On the cylinder heads in particular, consider the cost of reworking the originals against the price of new replacements.
As a quick reference, at the time of writing this book the cost of stock replacement–type parts and complete machining will easily approach $2,000. Even when doing all the disassembly, inspection, and assembly work yourself, I would keep a $3,000 or $4,000 minimum budget in mind for a proper rebuild. It’s very easy to double that (or more) when contracting some of the work or adding in upgraded or higher-performance parts.
Performance goals have a direct relationship to the budget process. Almost everything you do to improve performance will have an impact on the project’s cost. With that fact noted, quite a few performance improvements are possible for a modest cost increase. On the risk versus reward scale we can get a nice initial increase with very low risk/cost.
The first question when looking at performance goals will be the intended use of the engine. It might be fun to ask for 600 hp, 20 mpg, a smooth idle, and a low budget, but reality dictates that you are not going to get all of those at the same time. The right answer for a 4-speed Mustang is different from the proper package for a four-wheel-drive truck. It’s most common to ask for a certain amount of power and then try to fit that engine into your design and budget envelope. It is often a better idea to approach it from the opposite direction: Define the vehicle needs and budget first, then see what kind of power you can get within those boundaries.
From the factory, the non-high-performance Ford FE engines used in passenger cars and light trucks were good running, durable, and reliable. But they were not noteworthy for outright power. They were intentionally designed for low-RPM torque; smooth, responsive driving; good idle quality; tolerance for low octane fuels; and low maintenance. In today’s environment we have much better ignitions, more consistent (perhaps not better) fuel quality, and enthusiast owners who are much more involved in terms of tuning and more tolerant of high-performance characteristics such as idle quality, noise, and part throttle behavior.
A well-built stock or moderately upgraded 390 4-barrel engine should provide between 300 and 400 hp. A similar 428-based engine should deliver between 350 and 450 hp. While the 352 and 360 engines are worthy powerplants for street use, the reality is that you are far better off converting them to 390 cubes or more during the rebuild process. The upside gains in power and torque are dramatic, and the costs are nominal.
Limitations that should be considered included fuel tolerance. A compression ratio between 9.5:1 and 10.0:1 will usually work well with pump premium. Heavy vehicles with highway gearing should trend to the low side of that range, while a lightweight vehicle with steeper gears can go to or beyond the high side.