BMW 3-Series (E36) 1992-1999. Eddie Nakato

The heat shield installs to the chassis rail with these self-tapping metal screws. They have a little drill bit in the point to help them start.

       Some of these holes line up with studs that are already on the chassis rail, and some use self-tapping screws to fasten the shield.

       Here you can see the heat shield installed with the self-tapping screws and the stud that attached the stock airbox.

       I found that the heat shield wanted to rub against the radiator hose, which could lead to a cut hose down the road. So I used the bench grinder to create a little more clearance for the hose.

       The heat shield has been bent in a sheet metal brake to fit into its space perfectly.

       There’s the hose with the modified heat shield. It could use a little more clearance toward the top.

       With the clearance to the hose fixed, the heat shield is installed along with the silicone fitting to the MAF tube.

       Place the rubber adapter around the end of the new intake tube and install the two large hose clamps loosely. Install the short ram tube by slipping it over the MAF sensor tube. Turn the new intake tube to orient the air filter end with plenty of space around it, and to match to the support bracket. This bracket mounts on the fender wall where the old airbox also mounted.

      Carefully fit the new intake tube snugly against the MAF sensor tube. You know if it is not snug because it is not even all around. When oriented, install the mounting bracket and tighten its nuts and bolts, and tighten the hose clamps.

       The silicone connector fitting holds the MAF tube on one side and the cold-air intake tube on the other. Hose clamps keep everything in place.

       The cold-air intake tube has a bracket that helps support its weight, and it attaches to the same place the stock unit used for support.

       Install the new air filter. Virtually all aftermarket cone filters come pre-oiled from the factory, so you don’t need to add oil. But take a moment to note the maintenance schedule for the filter so you can clean and oil it (or replace it) as needed. Use the hose clamp that came with the air filter to tighten it to the intake tube.

       This cone filter offers a lot of surface area, and it’s out in the open so you can see when it becomes dirty. Some cone filters can be washed; read the instructions on your kit for cleaning information.

       I found that one extra bolt was needed to hold up the other stock components that relied on the original air intake bracket for support. A used 10-mm bolt, nut, and washer from the metric fasteners bin did the trick.

       Clean the engine bay of tools and any loose hardware. If you use a towel or blanket to protect the engine from loose parts, remove this as well. Reconnect the battery and turn the car’s key to the “on” position for 10 seconds to re-initialize the DME. Then start the car and carefully inspect the engine bay for good connections and correct operation.

      Tip: Carefully inspect your work before you test-drive the car. With all the manipulation you performed, it’s easy for a connection to come loose. Any disconnected tube can cause a check engine light to come on shortly after you start the car. If this happens, check the intake air path and make sure all tubes are properly connected. If you find and refit a disconnected tube, the light may remain on for a few restarts. If the light does not go off soon, seek professional help.

       The mounting bracket is not optional; without it the weight of the filter and vibration of the car would shake the filter and intake tube loose in minutes.

       Our cold-air intake looks great installed and brings a bit of color to the engine bay as well. It sits right in the airflow through the grille and is protected from the worst of the engine heat by the heat shield.

      Project Results