Given this long colonial tradition of village greens and common lands, it is understandable why the recently arrived settlers in Upper Canada would expect a similar public space. As early as 1783 Governor-General Haldimand had produced the “Cataraqui Plan,”[15] which outlined the recommended configuration of the new townships in the colony. This provided for a “common” of four hundred acres “for the use of the town.” However, when the town of Niagara was eventually laid out by surveyor Augustus Jones in 1792, there was still no designation of a commons or true public square. In contrast, in adjacent Township #2 (Stamford), the surveyor Philip Frey had laid out “as much land as a public common to the Township … to amount to 800 acres.”[16] Sometimes referred to as “The Town Farm,”[17] the much reduced “Stamford Green” in the present City of Niagara Falls is a much-appreciated remnant of that vision.
Across the lake at the Sixteen Creek, the town of Oakville was surveyed with a large tract along the lake for “common land.” At York (Toronto) Lieutenant-Governor Simcoe set aside a Military Reserve of one thousand acres on the eastern edge, of which Fort York was established. The adjacent cleared land became known as the “Garrison Common” which was enjoyed by the townspeople. Eventually a “New Fort York” was built on the Reserve one kilometer to the west (later known as Stanley Barracks), but most of the original Reserve eventually became part of Exhibition Grounds on the south, and the “Provincial Lunatic Asylum”[18] to the north. A portion of the original Garrison Common adjacent to Old Fort York survives today surrounded by expressways and tall buildings of the modern metropolis.
The Village Green Covered with Snow, Woodstock, Vermont, photo, Robert Harding. The concept of village greens and commons was transplanted by English colonists to British North America. The Green in Woodstock is the iconic New England public space. Courtesy of SuperStock Images.
With no designated common lands or village greens in Niagara and a growing population on relatively small town lots it was inevitable that the local citizenry would cast an envious eye on that huge expanse of green arable land plus woodlot beyond. Besides, the soldiers were here to protect the town, not antagonize the loyal citizens of Niagara. Prior to the War of 1812 the Commons did in fact resemble a village green, albeit larger than most. The English Church and cemetery were situated on its eastern edge. Overlooking the grassy commons were the court house and jail (gaol), as well as the Freemasons’ Hall, which acted as a meeting house. Several handsome homes also faced the Commons. Even two hundred years later, with the edges of the original Commons nibbled away, the basic village green/common configuration persists: two churches with their ancient cemeteries can be seen from the Commons, the public school and a day care centre face the Commons, the hospital, a seniors’ apartment, a nursing home, a renowned repertory theatre, a sports complex, and a veterans’ lodge all abut the Commons. Several handsome homes on King and John Streets still overlook the Commons. Most importantly, the remaining 285 acres of grass and trees partially edged by water[19] truly are common lands to be enjoyed by all.[20]
Chapter 2
The Early Years
Archaeological digs at the present King’s Point site[1] and on the Commons[2] have uncovered artifacts made as early as 7000–6000 BCE. These small points fashioned from chert[3] as well as fragments of ceramic pots probably belonged to small groups of hunters-gatherers living along the Niagara River delta.
Projectile Point, early archaic bifurcate (7000–6000 BCE), chert, photo, Sergio Martin. Found at the King’s Point Archaeological Site at the bottom of a runoff ravine, this early point probably originated from the uplands (commons) above. King’s Point Site, catalogue # 01230.
Courtesy of the Niagara Historical Society and Museum.
The first recorded Aboriginals at the mouth of the Niagara River were the Atiwandaronks — known by the Europeans as the Nation de Petun or the Neutrals who spoke an Iroquoian dialect. Occupying the Niagara peninsula, they were strategically located between arch-enemies: the Hurons to the north-west and the powerful Six Nations Iroquois to the south-east. The Neutrals had several villages on the Niagara peninsula where they grew maize (corn), pumpkins, and beans, as well as tobacco that was traded with the other Natives. The Neutrals referred to the river as Ongiara or Onghiara, from which is derived the modern name, Niagara.[4]
Rene-Robert Cavelier de La Salle (1643–1687), purported to be a drawing of the French explorer as a young man. La Salle was the first European to record stepping ashore on the west bank of the mouth of the Niagara River.
Frank Severance, An Old Frontier of France (New York: Dodd, Mead and Company, 1917), 70.
In 1650 the neighbouring Iroquois (Seneca Nation) suddenly turned on the Neutrals, destroying their villages, killing many, but also absorbing some Neutral captives into their own communities. For the next one hundred years the Niagara Peninsula was “empty,” with only occasional Mississauga Natives (Chippewa Nation) passing through.
The French explorer Rene Robert Cavelier de La Salle was the first European to actually document stepping ashore on the west bank of the mouth of the Niagara River. Upon reaching the east bank of the river in January 1679 after an exhausting overland trek, La Salle and his Lieutenant Henri de Tonty “were taken across the mouth of the river by friendly Indians, and given a supper of white-fish and corn soup.”[5] As such, this simple meal represents the earliest recorded meal consumed in Niagara-on-the-Lake. It is also yet another instance where the indigenous peoples helped “white” strangers to survive.
Successive forts were erected by the French on the site of the present Fort Niagara on the east bank of the Niagara River in present New York State. The French apparently cultivated gardens on the fertile mud flats of the west side of the river to supply produce for the garrison.
Fort Niagara 25 July 1759, plan on paper. This previously unpublished map shows the battery on the west (Canadian) bank in fine detail, with a “Battery of two Royal and two six pound(ers)” in the upper right-hand corner. The Royal Collection © 2011, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II, RCIN 732108.
During the successful European-style siege of Fort Niagara by British forces in July 1759, the British surreptitiously established a battery on high ground at “Montreal Point”[6] near present Queen’s Royal Park. The British invasion flotilla approached Fort Niagara from the east. As the French warship Iroquoise controlled the mouth of the river, all the heavy artillery, ammunition, and bateaux had to be transported from their landing site at Four Mile Creek (east of the river) overland to the gully of present Bloody Run Creek, two miles upstream from the fort. Transported across the river in the bateaux, the heavy artillery pieces were then dragged laboriously, but apparently without detection, along the crest of the west bank to Montreal Point.