The wonder drugs of the twentieth century have replaced the miracles of the mustard mixtures, but they live on in the memories of many Canadians who have stories to tell about the lives that were saved with these simple remedies.
The word mustard evidently comes from the French mostarde or moustard (a combination of must, a fermentation of fruit juice, and mustard seeds).Three main varieties of the plant have developed — black and white, which originated in the Middle East and around the Mediterranean and which have now spread to almost all the temperate regions of the world, and brown, or Indian, mustard, which originated in Africa.Wild mustard, or charlock, has been a troublesome weed in many parts of the world for decades, but its seeds are said to have yielded the first Durham mustard made by Mrs. Clements of Durham, England in 1729. In Britain its seeds are sometimes still mixed with those of cultivated plants to procure the desired blend. All the varieties are similar in appearance, growing from eighteen inches to four feet high, depending on the environment, and bearing tiny, spherical, hard seeds in long pods.
The many different types of prepared mustard now available on our grocers’ shelves are based on a combination of the three main varieties blended with other flavourings such as wine, vinegar, spices, peppercorns, chilies, and other herbs such as tarragon and garlic. Some of the best known are:
American Mustard — a combination of white mustard seeds, white wine, sugar, and vinegar that produces a pale yellow, sweet, and mild mustard that is a great favourite on hot dogs and hamburgers.
Bordeaux Mustard — a blend of black mustard seeds, unfermented claret, and herbs that is popular with cold meats and grilled steaks.
Dijon Mustard — originated in the Burgundy area; blended from black seeds, salt, spices, and white wine, resulting in a pale yellow-grey mustard with a subtle flavour that is popular in sauces and vinaigrette dressings.
German Mustard — made from strong black mustard seeds, flour, and vinegar, it complements cold cuts and sausages.
Meaux Mustard — has an unusual crunchy texture and a hot flavour produced by a mixture of ground black seeds, spices, and vinegar, making it an excellent companion for ham and cold cuts and a welcome addition to sauces, mayonnaise, and vinaigrettes.
For our ancestors mustard was a very necessary ingredient in the pickles section of their cookery books.There were many variations of mustard sauces to preserve cucumbers, onions, and other garden vegetables for the long winter months.This recipe, taken from The New Galt Cook Book by Margaret Taylor and Frances McNaught, 1898, was typical:
Mustard Pickles: One peck cucumbers, one peck onions, six heads cauliflower, one and half gallons cider vinegar, two pounds mustard, three cups brown sugar, ten cents of tumeric. Sprinkle cucumbers, onions and cauliflower each separately with salt, put on water and let lie over night.Add the other things with a little cold vinegar, heat remainder of vinegar to boiling heat, pour over hard pickles three times, then put in all ingredients, let simmer and pour over the pickles.
Today, with our convenience foods, we can give a lift to a well-known recipe. For example, mustard butter can be made by simply adding 1 teaspoon of prepared mustard to 1/2 cup of soft butter for use on sandwiches, vegetables, fish, or meat. Mustard mayonnaise can be made by mixing 2 teaspoons of prepared mustard into a cup of mayonnaise, and an ordinary cream sauce can be transformed by having 2 teaspoons of prepared mustard added to each cup to be used on fish, seafood, meats, and vegetables. An excellent glaze for ham can be quickly prepared by combining 4 tablespoons of dark brown sugar, 2 tablespoons of liquid honey, and 1 teaspoon of mustard, applied to the ham about 40 minutes before it is finished baking.
In addition to being a quick additive to recipes, mustard is an important ingredient in many others. This is a simple one to brighten a dull day:
Baked Beans
1 pound beans soaked overnight in water
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 tablespoons vinegar
1 tablespoon dry mustard
1 tablespoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/4 cup brown sugar
1/4 cup molasses
4 large onions, quartered
1/2 pound salt pork, cut into small cubes
Drain the beans and rinse. Cover with hot water and add baking soda. Parboil for about 20 minutes (the beans will wrinkle). Rinse with hot water. Prepare a bean pot or casserole for the oven by rubbing the sides with butter. Place some of the salt pork and two of the onions in the bottom, pour in the beans and bury the rest of the onions in them, and put the rest of the pork on top. Add the rest of the ingredients and stir. Cover. Bake 6 to 8 hours at 250ºF. About halfway through the baking stage add enough boiling water to cover the beans. Keep the lid on the bean pot or the casserole until the last 30 to 40 minutes, when it should be removed so that the beans will brown. Serves about 8 hungry guests.
In Biblical times, mustard was likened to the kingdom of heaven; in modern times it is recognized as the ingredient that brings out the best in all the rest. So experiment, add a little mustard to your favourite recipe, and be prepared for some compliments.
Ginger It Up
They gave to her the nutmeg, And they gave to her the ginger; But she gave to them a far better thing, The seven gold rings off her fingers.
The Gypsy Countess, old Scottish ballad
For centuries, spices were among the most expensive items in a household and were kept in locked compartments, cupboards, or boxes to guard against thieves. Among the most exotic and valuable, ginger was also one of the first spices known in Asia, India, and China. Among the earliest references to ginger in China is one dating to the twelfth century b.c. Confucius (551–479 b.c.) added ginger to every meal and approved its use during periods of fasting or sacrificial worship when other pungent foods were banned. It was also planted in pots and carried by the Chinese on long sea voyages to prevent scurvy.
By at least the first century A. D., ginger had reached the Mediterranean area, probably carried there by Phoenician traders. The Greeks and Romans quickly adopted this piquant, peppery spice; it was so highly prized by the latter that they paid fifteen times more per pound for ginger than they did for black pepper.The Romans were the first to use large quantities of ginger in cooking and to strew it on their floors or burn it in their homes to drive out noxious odours.
It was equally valued as a seasoning, a preservative, a perfume, and a medicine, just as it is now in many cultures. It was so well known that it was set on the table at every meal, just as salt and pepper are today, and it was a favourite seasoning for hot wine beverages called caudles.This is a modern version of one that appeared in The Forme of Cury, published in 1390:
Caudle
1/2 pint water
1 1/2 pints white wine
8 ounces ground almonds
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon honey
pinch salt
pinch powdered saffron
Bring the water and wine to a boil in a saucepan.