4–5 tbsp vegetable oil
1 green chilli, deseeded and chopped
1 clove of garlic, peeled and chopped
2cm (¾ in) piece of root ginger, peeled and chopped
1 onion, peeled and finely sliced
12 curry leaves
3 cardamon pods, crushed
2 bay leaves
1 x 400g can of chopped tomatoes
200ml (7fl oz) beef stock
3 tbsp tamarind paste
25g (1oz) butter
25g (1oz) flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Salt and black pepper
1. For the madras curry powder, place all of the whole spices in a spice grinder or coffee grinder, or use a pestle and mortar, and grind to a fine powder, then mix with the ground turmeric and vegetable oil.
2. Next, season the beef all over with salt and pepper. Heat 1–2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large, non-stick saucepan and, over a high heat, sear roughly a third or a half of the beef pieces for 1–2 minutes or until golden brown. Fry the rest of the beef in 1–2 more batches, removing each batch from the pan when the meat is browned and placing it on a plate while you fry the remaining pieces, adding more oil as needed.
3. Blend the chilli, garlic and ginger to a paste using a hand-held blender or a pestle and mortar and adding a splash of water if necessary.
4. Place the pan used to seal the beef back over a high heat, add 1–2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil and the onion and fry for 5 minutes or until softened and starting to brown. Add 3½ tablespoons of the curry powder, along with the chilli, garlic and ginger paste, the curry leaves, cardamom and bay leaves, then stir the mixture well.
FOR THE MADRAS CURRY POWDER
2 tbsp coriander seeds
2 tbsp fenugreek seeds
1 tbsp black mustard seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 cinnamon stick
5 cloves
1 tbsp ground turmeric
2 tbsp vegetable oil
FOR THE FRIED SHALLOTS
3 shallots, peeled and finely sliced
2 tbsp plain flour
100ml (3½fl oz) vegetable oil
5. Tip in the beef and cover with the chopped tomatoes, stock and tamarind paste, then season with salt and pepper. Cover the pan with a lid and bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 2 hours or until the beef is very tender. Alternatively, cook in the oven, preheated to 140C° (275°F), Gas 1, for 2 hours, or in a slow cooker for 3–4 hours.
6. For the fried shallots, first dust the shallots in the flour. Place a frying pan over a high heat, pour in the vegetable oil and fry the shallots for 2–3 minutes or until crisp and golden brown. Remove from the oil and drain on kitchen paper.
7. Remove the lid from the curry pan, stir in the butter and chopped parsley and season to taste. Spoon the beef on to plates with some of the crispy shallots on top and serve with some plain boiled rice on the side.
Classic dishes shouldn’t be messed about with. Beef bourguignon is one of those classics and this recipe has come via the long road from my training days in France. In between the pints of French bière I got a lot of practice at dishes like hake beurre blanc, duck gizzards salads and lemon tarts, and of course this one. It’s still exactly the same as it was back then, just as it should be.
SERVES 4
2 tbsp plain flour
1kg (2lb 3oz) braising steak, cut into 2.5cm (1in) dice
4–5 tbsp olive oil
150g (5oz) pancetta, cut into small chunks
1 shallot, peeled and finely chopped
2 onions, peeled and sliced
1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
75ml (3fl oz) brandy
500ml (18fl oz) red wine
1 litre (1¾ pints) beef stock
1 bouquet garni (2 bay leaves, 2 sprigs of thyme, 2 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley)
115g (4oz) baby onions
25g (1oz) butter
Salt and black pepper
1. Season the flour with salt and pepper and toss the beef in it. Place a large, non-stick frying pan over a high heat, add 1–2 tablespoons of olive oil and fry the beef for 1–2 minutes in batches, removing each batch from the pan when browned and placing it on a plate while you fry the rest, adding more oil as needed. (Too much meat in the pan at once will mean it takes longer to brown.)
2. Add the pancetta and fry for 1–2 minutes or until golden brown, then tip in the shallot, onions and garlic and fry for a further 2–3 minutes or until browned. Return the cooked beef to the pan and mix well with the other ingredients.
3. Pour in the brandy and carefully set it alight to burn off the alcohol, then add the wine and stock and bring to a simmer. Add the bouquet garni, then cover and cook on a low heat for 2 hours or until tender and thickened. Alternatively, cook in the oven at 140°C (275°F), Gas 1, for 2 hours, or in a slow cooker for 3–4 hours.
4. Half an hour before the meat is cooked, blanch the baby onions in boiling water for 30 seconds, then peel. Place a separate frying pan over a high heat, add the butter and a little olive oil and fry the onions for 2–3 minutes or until just golden, then add to the casserole for the last 20 minutes of cooking time.
5. Just before serving, check the seasoning. Spoon a generous portion of beef bourguignon on to each plate and a pile of Creamy Potato Mash alongside, together with some green beans or Vichy Carrots.
COURGETTE, TOMATO AND BASIL PIE WITH DORSTONE CHEESE
Dorstone is a cheese I came across once at a farmers’ market, made by Charlie Westhead of Neal’s Yard Dairy. It’s an unpasteurised goat’s cheese made in Herefordshire, with a moist, fluffy texture and coated in ash. If you can’t get it, don’t worry; a non-chalky goat’s cheese will do fine, even a French Crottin.
SERVES 4
2–3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for oiling
4 courgettes, topped and tailed and sliced lengthways
1 x 250g jar of sun-blushed tomatoes, drained
2 banana shallots, peeled and chopped
2 cloves of garlic, peeled
6 large basil leaves, torn
200g (7oz) firm goat’s cheese, such as Dorstone or Ogleshield
Plain flour, for dusting
200g (7oz) ready-rolled all-butter puff pastry
1 egg, beaten