· 2 garlic cloves, chopped
· 1 bay leaf
· a few sprigs of thyme
· 500ml brown chicken stock
· 80g pearl barley, soaked overnight in cold water and drained
· 30g butter
· 1 teaspoon chopped parsley
FOR THE RED CABBAGE
· ½ a small red cabbage, sliced
· 50g dark soft brown sugar
· 1 cinnamon stick
· 1 star anise
· 3 cloves
· 1 bay leaf
· grated zest of 1 orange
· a large glass of red wine
· 100ml red wine vinegar
· 200ml brown chicken stock
· 2 tablespoons redcurrant jelly
FOR THE SWEDE SAUCE
· ⅓ of a small swede, diced
· 1 small carrot, grated
· 120ml milk
· 1 garlic clove, crushed
· 1 small bay leaf
· 25g butter
· grated nutmeg, to taste
Prepare the red cabbage. Put the cabbage into a saucepan, add the sugar, spices, bay leaf, orange zest, red wine, red wine vinegar and brown chicken stock then bring to a simmer. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook gently for about an hour, until the cabbage is tender and nearly all the liquid has evaporated. Stir in the redcurrant jelly and season to taste.
Season the pheasant with salt and pepper. Heat the duck fat in a heavy-based casserole, then add the pheasant and cook over a medium-high heat until golden brown all over. Add the vegetables, garlic, herbs and stock. Bring to a simmer, then cover the pan and place in an oven heated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4. Cook for 15 minutes. Stir in the pearl barley, then return the casserole to the oven for another 25 minutes, or until the barley is tender and the pheasant is cooked. Remove from the oven and check the seasoning. The pearl barley mixture should have the consistency of a risotto; if it is too runny, simmer on the hob until reduced and thickened. Stir in the butter and parsley and set aside.
While the pheasant is cooking, prepare the swede sauce. Put the swede into a small saucepan with the grated carrot (this will help maintain the pale orange colour), add the milk, garlic and bay leaf and cook over a very low heat for about 15 minutes, until the swede is tender, stirring frequently so it doesn’t catch on the base of the pan. Remove the bay leaf, transfer to a blender and purée until smooth. Return to the pan, stir in the butter, nutmeg and some salt and pepper and heat through gently.
To serve, transfer the pheasant to a board and cut off the breasts and legs. Divide the swede sauce between 2 plates, pile up some pearl barley next to it, then place the pheasant legs and breasts on top. Add a spoonful of braised red cabbage to each plate.
GAME FAGGOTS WITH CELERIAC PURÉE AND CARROTS
This thrifty British classic is a fine way to use up any game you have left in the fridge or freezer. These faggots have a wonderful succulence, thanks to the pork. It’s important that you make sure there’s at least 25 per cent fat in your mince. Caul fat is the feathery lining of the pig’s stomach. It may sound a little visceral, but worry not; it simply holds the faggots together and adds subtle richness. You should order it from your butcher in advance.
& try with cranberry sauce or redcurrant jelly and an Argentinian Malbec
SERVES 4
FAGGOTS
· 3 large shallots, chopped
· 2 sprigs of thyme, leaves removed
· 1 garlic clove, crushed
· 2 juniper berries, lightly crushed
· 50g butter
· 100ml red wine
· 250g fatty minced pork
· 250g minced game meat, such as pigeon, pheasant, venison, hare, or a mixture
· 100g fresh white breadcrumbs
· 75g caul fat
· 1 teaspoon chopped parsley
PORT SAUCE
· 1 teaspoon olive oil
· 20g butter
· 12–16 small round shallots, peeled and trimmed
· 100ml port or full-bodied red wine
· 250ml good dark beef or game stock
· ½ teaspoon cornflour, if needed
FOR THE CELERIAC PURÉE
· 1 small celeriac
· 100g butter
· 75ml double cream
· freshly grated nutmeg
FOR THE CARROTS
· 6 large carrots, cut lengthwise into quarters
· 1 teaspoon light soft brown sugar
· 25g butter
Gently cook the shallots, thyme, garlic and juniper berries in the butter until soft. Add the red wine and simmer until reduced by two-thirds. Remove from the heat and leave to cool.
Put the pork, minced game, breadcrumbs and shallot mixture into a bowl and mix well, seasoning with salt and pepper. To check the seasoning, cook a small spoonful of the mixture in a frying pan, then taste it. Add more salt and pepper to the rest of the mixture if necessary. Divide it into 8 and shape into balls.
Wash the caul fat in cold water, then dry on kitchen paper. Tease it out gently into super-thin, stretchy pieces. Cut them into squares large enough to wrap around the faggots. Gently wrap a square around each faggot, then chill the faggots for about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, to make the sauce, heat the oil and butter in a small, ovenproof frying pan, then add the shallots and cook over a medium heat for about 5 minutes so they start to colour. Transfer to an oven heated to 180°C/Gas Mark 4 and roast for about 20 minutes, until tender and golden. Season with salt and pepper halfway through the cooking time and stir well so that they colour evenly.
Simmer the port or red wine in a small pan until reduced by half, then add the meat stock. Continue to simmer until the mixture has reduced by two-thirds and thickened slightly. If it is not thickening, mix the cornflour with enough water to make a paste, stir it into the sauce and simmer for a minute longer. Add the roasted shallots to the sauce, check the seasoning and set aside.
Put the faggots into a small roasting tin and place in an oven heated to 200°C/Gas Mark 6. Cook for about 20 minutes, until well browned, turning them halfway through cooking.
Meanwhile, cook the vegetables. Peel the celeriac, cut it into small chunks and cook in boiling salted water