Strudel, Noodles and Dumplings: The New Taste of German Cooking. Anja Dunk

knead must be long.

      The oven must be very hot – 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7.

      The flour must be strong, not ordinary plain flour.

      The water must be tepid – not cold, not hot.

      The humidity level in the oven is key to the crisp outer crust and chewy interior of these rolls, so a tray of boiling water sitting at the bottom of the oven is essential.

      When cutting the rolls and rolling, do not add more flour – use water only to prevent the dough sticking to the work surface.

      Do not cover the rolls on their second rise – this allows the crust to dry out, which is half the key to the crispiness at the end.

      MAKES ABOUT 14 ROLLS

      You will need two standard baking trays and one with high sides

      500ml water, tepid

      20g fresh yeast, or 10g dried yeast

      800g strong white flour

      1½ teaspoons fine sea salt

      poppy seeds (optional)

      Put the water into a jug. If using fresh yeast, crumble it into the jug and stir until it has dissolved. Put the flour and salt into a large mixing bowl (or the bowl of a free-standing electric mixer), pour over the yeasted liquid, mix together with a wooden spoon, then tip out on to a floured work surface. (If using dried yeast, just put it into the bowl with the flour.) Knead the dough for at least 10 minutes, until it is elastic. If using an electric mixer, knead with a dough hook on a low speed for the same amount of time.

      Form the dough into a rough ball and put back into an oiled mixing bowl. Cover the bowl with clingfilm or a clean, damp tea towel, then set aside to rise in a warm part of the kitchen until doubled in volume. Line two standard baking trays with baking paper.

      Once risen, splash some water on to the work surface, tip the dough out on to this, and chop it into 14 equal pieces using a dough cutter or a large, sharp knife. Shape the rolls into ovals with pointed ends (almond shape) and place them on the baking trays, leaving space between for them to expand. Set the oven to 220°C/200°C fan/gas 7, and leave the trays on the work surface for the rolls to rise a second time while the oven comes up to temperature.

      After about 25 minutes the oven should be hot enough and the rolls should be well risen (not quite doubled in size). Place a high-sided baking tray in the bottom of the oven. Tip boiling water into the tray until it comes 3cm up the sides, then shut the oven door to create some steam. While the oven humidity is building up, slash the top of the rolls about 1cm deep, down the centre. If making poppy seed rolls, brush the top of the rolls with a little water, and sprinkle with some poppy seeds before slashing.

      Bake the rolls in the oven for about 20 minutes, until they are crisp and golden on the outside and hollow-sounding when knocked on the bottom. Transfer to a wire rack to cool.

      USING UP OLD BREAD ROLLS:

      It is also with these stale bread rolls that dumplings and puddings are made. Every kitchen has a jar of Semmelbrösel