Complete Artist’s Manual: The Definitive Guide to Materials and Techniques for Painting and Drawing. Simon Jennings. Читать онлайн. Newlib. NEWLIB.NET

Автор: Simon Jennings
Издательство: HarperCollins
Серия:
Жанр произведения: Изобразительное искусство, фотография
Год издания: 0
isbn: 9780007528127
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contracting with the canvas on changes in temperature and humidity. It dries to form a durable base, which will not absorb too much oil from the paint.

      Applying oil primer

      Lead-white primer is quite stiff, and should be let down slightly with turpentine so that it can be brushed out easily. Apply an even coat as thinly as possible, brushing it in well (1). Finish off with a long smoothing stroke in line with the weave of the cloth (2). You should leave this first coat to dry for two days before applying a second coat.

      The primed canvas should either be used while touch-dry (within a week or two) or be left to cure for four to six months before use. If paint is applied between these times, the primer sucks oil from the paint, leaving it underbound and with insufficient adhesion to the support.

      Yellowing

      The linseed oil in which lead white is ground turns the priming coat yellow if the primed support is stored away from the light for any length of time. The whiteness is restored upon exposure to sunlight.

      Alkyd primer

      This is a valid alternative to oil primer, as it is flexible, non-yellowing and fast-drying; each coat can be overpainted after 24 hours. Dilute alkyd primer with white (mineral) spirit to the required consistency.

      Acrylic primer is flexible, durable, water-thinnable, fast-drying and inexpensive. It can be used to prime canvas, board, paper and other surfaces, and can be applied directly to the support without the need of an isolating layer of size. It dries in a few hours.

      Acrylic primer is the ideal surface for acrylic paints, providing a bright undercoat which brings out the vividness of the colours and gives added luminosity to thin washes. It can also be used with oil paints on rigid supports, but this is not recommended for canvas painting, except in a thin layer: acrylic is more flexible than oil, and the different tensions may eventually lead to cracking of the paint surface.

      Acrylic primer is often referred to as acrylic gesso, a confusing term as it is not a gesso at all; traditional gesso is prepared with animal glue and chalk, and is very absorbent.

      Applying acrylic primer

      Work from the edges and apply the primer quickly in sections. Use a large brush or a paint roller, and keep the working edge moving, as acrylic primer dries quickly. Leave to dry for a few hours. The second coat should be applied at right angles to the first.

      When priming board, you can apply as many as five coats for greater whiteness and opacity. For a really smooth finish, thin the last coat with a little water. For a textured finish, impress a piece of canvas (or any textured fabric) into the final coat of primer while it is still damp. Pull it away, then let the panel dry.

      Checking primers

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      Commercially produced primers may become hard if kept on the shelf for too long, so it is wise to shake a tin before buying it to make sure that the contents are still liquid.

      Applying primer:

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      • Apply it in several thin coats – a thin coat is pliable while a thick coat is likely to crack and may even flake off the support.

      • Cover the entire surface evenly. Don’t go back over brushstrokes.

      • Make sure that each coat is touch-dry before any subsequent coat is applied, and also before starting to paint.

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      (1) Applying a thin, even coat

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      (2) Finishing off

      

      Acrylic over glue

      Never use acrylic primer over animal-glue size, as it will prevent the paint from adhering properly to the support.

      Paint rollers

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      It is a good idea to use a paint roller to apply acrylic primer. A roller keeps the paint moving and delivers an even coat; for small supports, use a small radiator roller.

      Working sequence

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      Work in sections; leave primer to dry between coats; apply subsequent coats at right angles.

      Emulsion paint

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      An economical primer, often used by students, is ordinary matt household paint, which provides a sympathetic, semi-absorbent ground. However, household paint should only be used on rigid supports, and not on stretched canvas. Use only good-quality paint; cheap emulsions have a limited life span.

      Using primer creatively

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      The lovely, matt, airy quality of Fred Cuming’s paint is due in part to the ground he works on. After many years of painting, Cuming still finds the best primer is a good-quality, matt, white undercoat. When the primer is thoroughly dry, he applies a thin layer of linseed oil to the surface and wipes it off immediately, leaving just a trace of oil. When this is dry – after two weeks – the resulting surface provides a sound key for the paint, and prevents it sinking.

      Fred Cuming

       Bathers – Cap Ferrett

      Oil on panel

      60 × 50cm (24 × 20in)

      Brian Sinfield Gallery, Burford

      Textured finish

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      For a textured finish, lay and then press a piece of textured material, such as an old piece of sacking, into the final primer coat.

      SEE ALSO

       CANVAS

       BOARDS AND PANELS

       SIZING FOR OILS

       TONED GROUNDS

       OIL PAINTS

       FAT-OVER-LEAN

       TEMPERA

       ACRYLIC PAINTS

MAKING PRIMERS Ready-made primers are adequate for general needs, but obviously they cannot be tailored to individual requirements. Making your own primer is economical and will give you greater control over its quality and absorbency

      Egg-oil emulsion

      This general-purpose, easily made primer is suitable for canvas and board. It is ready to paint on after two days’ drying (see list of ingredients here).