• Make sure all lights and indicators are functioning, and that exterior mirrors are fitted.
• Try out the keys to ensure they fit the doors, boot, and petrol filler cap.
Now use your torch to take a look underneath the car for signs of corrosion or leaking fluids. In particular, keep an eye out for oil leaks from the engine, gear box and axles; fluid leaks from the brakes, cylinders and pipes; water leaks from the radiator and hoses; holes in the exhaust system; and rips in the rubber seals over the front or rear axles. Test the amount of play in the steering, wheel bearings, drive shafts, spring shackles and shock absorbers. Probe any suspect areas with a screwdriver to check for signs of corrosion. Look closely at areas smothered with underseal — it may be there to conceal defects or corrosion.
Engine compartment checks
A clean engine compartment provides confirmation that the car has been well looked after. Any leaks or wear can be easily spotted. Check to see if any parts have been replaced.
Be cautious when the engine is smothered in oil and the bonnet and wings are filthy. Underseal is a sure sign of trouble — it’s there to conceal damage or a dodgy repair.
• Check the dipstick for oil level and colour, and run it through the fingers to feel the texture of the oil. If the level is low, or the oil is thick, black, and gritty, or full of water bubbles, the car has been poorly serviced and maintained — which means there’s a strong possibility of engine problems in the future.
• Open the oil filler cap. Creamy white deposits here indicate a leaking cylinder head gasket, which could prove expensive if the engine has been damaged as a result.
• Check the tension and wear of all belts and pulleys.
• While the engine is cold, remove the radiator cap and check the water level. A low level is a sure sign of a leak. Check all hoses and connections. Make sure it is green or blue — clear fluid means there is no antifreeze in the mixture. Brown liquid, or bluish orange stains, indicate rust.
• Make sure the battery is secure, the terminals firm, lightly greased, and free of corrosion, and that each cell is filled to the correct level with distilled water.
• Inspect the chassis and look at the top of the wings where the front suspension is fixed. Corrosion here can be very dangerous. Note the VIN number so you can compare it to the seller’s vehicle documentation and ensure that the car has not been ‘ringed’ (stolen and given a false number plate).
Interior checks
You can tell a well-maintained car by its interior. Worn seats, shiny controls (particularly the pedals, gear knob and steering wheel), torn upholstery, damaged carpets are all signs of heavy wear. Look under carpets for signs of damage.
• Make sure there’s enough leg and headroom to accommodate your passengers in the back, and check that the boot is big enough for your needs.
• Test all electrical components are functioning: the heater, front and rear wipers, lights, indicators, heated windows, etc. When you turn the ignition, make sure the appropriate warning lights are working and that they go out after a few seconds. An oil pressure warning light that fails to light may have been disconnected to hide a fault; if it stays illuminated there’s a problem with the oil pump. DON’T BUY.
• Find out whether the stereo is included in the purchase price. Check that it’s working and that the aerial is in satisfactory condition.
• Check the speedometer (see panel).
• Test the seat belts by pulling them out and letting the reel spool the belt back in. Look for fraying and other signs of wear.
The amount of mileage on the clock is a major factor in determining the price of a vehicle. Which is why around a million cars a year are ‘clocked’ — unscrupulous sellers rigging the speedometer so that it shows a lower mileage than the car has actually covered.
On average, a car can be expected to travel 10,000 miles (16,000 km) per year. Cars which have covered higher than average mileage are cheaper to buy, but can be a risky proposition. What looks to be a bargain could end up costing you a fortune in repairs. Much will depend on the treatment the car has received in the past, so look for a full service history. Steer clear of vehicles previously owned by rental companies and driving schools because of the wide range of driving styles and skills they are subjected to (remember how rough you were on the clutch when you were a learner?). But a car which has been serviced regularly and maintained in good condition by a careful owner will still give good service after 80,000 miles (129,000 km) and may be a better bet than a car which has low mileage because it has been used exclusively for short urban journeys.
If the mileage seems suspiciously low for the car’s age, check the service history very carefully. On a car with a five-digit mileometers, the reading shows zero when the car reaches 100,000 miles — so a car which has covered 139,000 miles will only show 39,000.
Signs of clocking include:
• Digits that don’t line up
• Scratches and digs around the speedometer where a screwdriver may have slipped
• Damage to the heads of screws holding the mileometer
If you suspect that there has been tampering, telephone the previous owner (whose name will appear on the registration document) and ask what the mileage was when the car was sold.
Ask the seller to provide a written guarantee that the mileage shown is genuine. This will help you to claim compensation if the speedometer turns out to have been clocked.
Now it’s time to start the engine and look for leaks or smoke emissions. Listen for any unusual sounds such as rattles and clunks as these could signal expensive repairs to camshaft
bearings. It should be quiet, regular, and responsive to more throttle. While someone revs the engine for you, go to the rear of the car and check the exhaust for blue smoke (an indication of worn engine parts).
For a test drive to show up any defects, it needs to last at least 20 minutes. It’s no use sitting alongside the previous owner watching them drive — you must be permitted to take the wheel yourself. Before setting off, make sure you are covered by insurance and that the vehicle is road legal. There should be no problem with a car on a dealer’s forecourt, but when buying privately make sure the vehicle is taxed, has its MOT certificate, and that you are covered by either the owner’s or your own insurance.
Adjust the driver’s seat and head rest. Familiarize yourself with the position of the controls and make sure they are comfortably within reach. Check out the all-round visibility. Use your rear-view mirror to check for smoke billowing out of the exhaust. Listen to the engine the whole time and keep checking the warning lights and gauges on the dashboard as you drive. Be suspicious of lights or gauges that seem not to be working — they may have been disabled deliberately to hide a serious fault.
Test the clutch while stationary by applying the handbrake and selecting second gear; now try to move off against the handbrake. The car should stall; if it doesn’t, the clutch is slipping. You shouldn’t have to lift the clutch too high before the biting point is reached. Rushing, hissing noises are a sign of trouble.
Accelerate and decelerate a few times to make sure the car stays in gear. If the car is unresponsive when you try accelerating quickly from a low gear there may be a problem with the carburettor. Gear changes should feel smooth and should not be accompanied by crunching noises. Test all gears, including reverse. If you have to force the gear lever, expensive repairs lie ahead. Climb a steep hill, allowing the engine to labour in as high a gear as possible. Look for power loss, clouds of exhaust smoke, and a rising temperature gauge. While you’re on a gradient, test