While the land was beginning to settle into its present shape, subterranean activity forced hot mineral solutions of ores into narrow cracks in the upper rocks. These mineral solutions were mostly lead but there were traces of silver and even gold. Chemical reactions formed calcium fluoride, which was a nuisance to later miners but is a useful raw material today. To the north, vast upsurges of volcanic dolerite created the great Whin Sill.
Around 10,000 years BC, the land, though covered by ice, was beginning to take on the outline of the Dales as we know them. As the ice melted, moraine dams created lakes in areas such as Upper Wensleydale. Mud made from ground down rocks of the high tops began to form the basis of new strata and the process of wearing down and building up began again. In geological time 10,000 years is like a few minutes to us and, once the moraine dams were breached, those muds and clays began to form the basis of today’s rich pastures of the Central Dales. The process is continuing.
Wildlife in the Yorkshire Dales
Wildlife habitats follow closely-defined zonal limits; on the high tops of Ingleborough and Pen-y-ghent, habitats are restricted to mosses and a little grass with alpine flowers, such as purple saxifrage (saxifraga oppositifolia), living in tiny crevices and ledges on the limestone crags. Mountains with broader summits, such as Whernside, are able to support coarse grasses, with heather and bilberry dominating the grouse moors further south. Meadow pipits and ring ouzels frequent the higher slopes and the dipper follows streams high on the fell. Birds of prey such as kestrels, merlins and buzzards, as well as the ubiquitous crow, can be found on most of the quieter fells. Mountain hares are often seen gambolling on the open hillsides. Even though standing water is rare on the normally dry cols and ridges, sea-birds, such as blackheaded gulls, nest far from their ‘official’ home. For centuries, the land below the 1,700 foot (520m) contour, has been improved for sheep grazing and true native grasses and rushes will only be found in areas of poor husbandry and under-grazing. Mountain pansy (viola lutea), rock rose (helianthemum chamaecistus) and thyme (thymus serpyllum), grow on sparse limestone soils. Limestone pavements are cracked and fissured by ‘grikes’ where the shade-loving plants such as dog’s mercury (mercuriatis perennis) and hart’s tongue fern (phyllitis scolopendi) are the remains of ground cover of native ash woods which covered the Dales before the last Ice Age.
Where the riverbanks are uncultivated, natural woodland takes advantage of the rich damp soil and woodland flowers grow in profusion. Many of the rivers have excellent fish stocks but the best by far are the Lune and Ribble and their tributaries. Both main rivers manage to enter the Irish Sea relatively unpolluted and, as a result, are visited by migrant trout and spawning salmon.
The Yorkshire Dales National Park
In many other countries, National Parks are wilderness areas, where few people live unless they are connected with running the park. Countries such as the United States of America have even gone to the length of moving residents off land designated as a National Park. In England and Wales, National Parks are areas of outstanding beauty where people still live and work. One of the major functions of a National Park is to preserve the landscape and the livelihoods of the people living within its boundaries. This is achieved by careful planning control. The National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act of 1949 led to the formation of National Parks in England and Wales.
The word ‘National’ in the title sometimes leads to misunderstanding. National Parks are not nationalised or in any way owned by the government.
The Yorkshire Dales National Park was designated in 1953 and covers an area of approximately 683 square miles (1769 square km). It is administered by the Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority. The Authority is made up of representatives from the local county and district councils as well as members appointed by the Secretary of State for the Environment, (Defra).
Large areas of grouse moorland, mainly in the south of the Park, are held by the Chatsworth Estates Trust for the Duke of Devonshire. Rights of Way cross several of the moors but, most importantly, the estate allows free access to Barden and Simonseat Moors above Bolton Abbey on either side of Wharfedale. This means that walkers have the right to roam freely over the moors on all but publicised days during the shooting season or during periods of high fire risk. This concession is one which must be respected by all users.
One of the statutory functions of a Park Authority is the appointment of full-time and voluntary Park Rangers. These are people with particular knowledge of some aspects of the local environment who are available to give help and advice to visitors.
Walking tips & guidance
Safety
As with all other outdoor activities, walking is safe provided a few simple commonsense rules are followed:
• Make sure you are fit enough to complete the walk;
• Always try to let others know where you intend going, especially if you are walking alone;
• Be clothed adequately for the weather and always wear suitable footwear;
• Always allow plenty of time for the walk, especially if it is longer or harder than you have done before;
• Whatever the distance you plan to walk, always allow plenty of daylight hours unless you are absolutely certain of the route;
• If mist or bad weather come on unexpectedly, do not panic but instead try to remember the last certain feature which you have passed (road, farm, wood, etc.). Then work out your route from that point on the map but be sure of your route before continuing;
• Do not dislodge stones on the high edges: there may be climbers or other walkers on the lower crags and slopes;
• Unfortunately, accidents can happen even on the easiest of walks. If this should be the case and you need the help of others, make sure that the injured person is safe in a place where no further injury is likely to occur. For example, the injured person should not be left on a steep hillside or in danger from falling rocks. If you have a mobile phone and there is a signal, call for assistance. If, however, you are unable to contact help by mobile and you cannot leave anyone with the injured person, and even if they are conscious, try to leave a written note explaining their injuries and whatever you have done in the way of first aid treatment. Make sure you know exactly where you left them and then go to find assistance. Make your way to a telephone, dial 999 and ask for the police or mountain rescue. Unless the accident has happened within easy access of a road, it is the responsibility of the police to arrange evacuation. Always give accurate directions on how to find the casualty and, if possible, give an indication of the injuries involved;
• When walking in open country, learn to keep an eye on the immediate foreground while you admire the scenery or plan the route ahead. This may sound difficult but will enhance your walking experience;
• It’s best to walk at a steady pace, always on the flat of the feet as this is less tiring. Try not to walk directly up or downhill. A zigzag route is a more comfortable way of negotiating a slope. Running directly downhill is a major cause of erosion on popular hillsides;
• When walking along a country road, walk on the right, facing the traffic. The exception to this rule is, when approaching a blind bend, the walker should cross over to the left and so have a clear view and also be seen in both directions;
• Finally, always park your car where it will not cause inconvenience to other road users or prevent a farmer from gaining access to his fields. Take any valuables with you or lock them out of sight in the car.