Heekerbeeker Kedgeree
This is named after the Heeks family, whose daughter Ella runs my business with me. Ella’s mama lovingly developed this kedgeree over many years. It started off as a child-friendly version with a lovely creamy sauce, which the Heeks girls grew up with, and has gradually evolved into this more sophisticated, spicy version, like the grown-up daughters. I must admit that it’s really rather light on vegetables, but everyone needs a day off sometimes.
SERVES 6
1kg (21/4lb) undyed smoked haddock
Bay leaves
Butter – anything from 25g (1oz) to a huge quantity, depending how your arteries are feeling
1 leek, chopped quite finely
5 tsp mild curry powder
A handful of sultanas
11/2 mugs of rice
4 eggs
11/2 mugs of frozen peas
2 lemons – juice 1, cut the other into wedges
Optional but very good:
Bunch of parsley
1 mug of whole roasted almonds
8–12 scallops
Rinse the fish and put in a big pan, cover with cold water and throw in a couple of bay leaves. Bring to the boil and simmer for a few minutes until it is just cooked (when it flakes easily off the skin). Hoick it out of the pan (leave the water where it is), take off the skin, pull out any bones you notice, then keep it warm on a plate, covered, in a very low oven.
Melt the butter in another big pan, fry the leek and cook gently until soft. Add the curry powder and cook for a couple of minutes. Then add a handful of sultanas and the rice and stir around to coat with the deliciousness in the pan. Add 31/2 mugs of water from the fish pan (or as much as there is and top up with normal water). Bring to the boil and simmer for 15–20 minutes or until the rice is cooked.
Meanwhile, hard boil the eggs for 15 minutes in boiling water, shell them and chop up. Keep warm with the fish.
Chop up some parsley if you want to. Cook the frozen peas and drain. When the rice is done, drain off any excess water and gently stir in the fish and peas and lemon juice to taste (I use it all). Stir in more butter if you like (I do). You can either stir in or serve on the side the boiled egg, and chopped parsley and roasted almonds if using. You should definitely serve with lemon quarters.
For a dinner party version, poach two or three scallops for each person. Just before eating, put them in barely simmering water with a pinch of salt for 3–5 minutes or until cooked through (open one a bit and check it’s opaque inside), and use them as the garnish.
Bombayed Jersey Royals
VEGAN
The new potato has been bastardised over the years with the constant desire to fill the shelves all year around with the little mites. If you are confused as to what early new potatoes should taste like, start with the Jersey Royal. Never was a name more deserving!
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