ABOVE
Sparmannia africana is a fine plant for filling a corner of a large conservatory.
Conservatory plants
By checking the cultivation requirements of the various plants featured in this book and by reading the section on how to grow plants in pots (see pages 20–27), you can soon assemble a list of suitable plants for growing under glass. If the heating, ventilation and irrigation topics have been addressed, you will have more than a sporting chance of attaining the dream of a conservatory filled with lush, healthy, exotic plants.
The single most useful and beneficial thing that you can do in the heat of the summer is to move all your plants outside for the hottest months. They will appreciate not only the fresh air, but also the rain, which helps to clean any dust from the leaves.
Pests & diseases under glass
The unnatural conditions of being under glass, the hostile environment of fluctuating temperatures and the problems of growing plants in containers mean that pests and diseases are virtually guaranteed at some time or other. Once bugs are happily ensconced, they can breed with alarming rapidity. Some insects, such as whitefly, can produce another generation mature enough for laying its own eggs within three days.
Check all plants at least once a week, looking not just for insects, but also for any signs of fungal infections, moulds, rotting or any other maladies. Dealing with any problems at the very first sign saves all sorts of trouble for the future. There’s no point ignoring it and hoping it will go away – it won’t. The more an infestation takes hold, the harder it is to deal with.
The chapter on pests and diseases (see pages 334–347) gives more comprehensive information, and there is also a Rogues’ Gallery (see pages 340–347) to help you identify exactly which horrors to look out for.
Professional maintenance contracts
The difficulties of looking after plants grown in conservatories are well known in the horticultural trade. As a result, teams of marvellous people are always available to help gardeners keep everything looking healthy. They will visit your home regularly to check that all is well in the conservatory. They will water, feed and clean plants whenever necessary and dispense valuable advice at the same time. They take all the hard work out of looking after plants, leaving you just to enjoy the results.
ABOVE
Tibouchina urvilleana adores lots of heat and humidity.
Architectural plants in the garden
Gardening with architectural plants is no different from any other type of gardening, but I can appreciate that planting a garden with unfamiliar plants might be a bit daunting. The usual rules still apply, although I prefer to think of them as tips and helpful advice.
Walking into an architectural plants nursery for the first time can be overwhelming. When faced with plants that look so big, bold and different, it’s easy to assume that all those on sale are fully grown, mature specimens. Although such a nursery is not for the timid, closer inspection will reveal that this type of gardening is not just about large plants.
You will also find on display a massive selection of smaller, easily affordable plants lurking throughout and underneath all the greenery. There is usually plenty of stock readily available that doesn’t require a second mortgage. So, if you’re new to this type of gardening and are bowled over by the choice of plants on offer, where do you start?
Garden design
There is a lot of pretentious nonsense bandied about garden design. If someone thinks that a selection of plants looks good together, who’s to say that they are wrong? As long as the gardener or client is happy with the result, that should be all that matters. But, many of us are happier with a few guidelines to assist, so here are just a few.
Choose plants that suit your type of garden and learn as much as you can about what keeps them happy.
It is important to choose plants that are right for your garden and to learn as much as possible about the growing conditions that would suit them best. (This is discussed in detail on page 16 and also in the individual plant entries.) Also, try to learn a bit about their eventual size – there is little point planting small plants near the back of the border where they will be obscured from view in a couple of years. This is, of course, all common sense that applies to any type of gardening, not just gardening with architectural plants.
Another common-sense strategy when planting – but one that I completely ignore – is to allow space around each plant so that it can spread without being crowded by its neighbours after a few seasons. Common sense it may be but, to impatient people like myself, this is something far too boring even to contemplate. I like to see a wonderful lush garden within two years, not ten. If plants start to crowd together, then I either get out the shears and do some serious pruning or, better still, thin out the number of plants and transplant the spare ones somewhere else.
Using the same plants throughout the garden to carry on a theme, rather than just having one of each type of plant, is something I am very keen on. It is much more pleasing and organized to look at. If one of your favourite plants happens to be, for instance, a Yucca gloriosa, start by planting one in a position where it is easily seen, and then plant several more along the length of the border or garden at various intervals. This effect gives the impression that a deliberate planting plan has been thought about, rather than appearing as a random hotchpotch. It is a commonly held misapprehension that using the same plant more than once is boring and shows a lack of imagination. Plant one of each only if you are an avid collector or the curator of a botanic garden.
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A specialist nursery will contain plants of all sizes to suit every budget.
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Multiple planting of the same type of plant (here, Blechnum spicant) gives much more dramatic results.
Still on the subject of multiple planting, small plants such as some ferns, grasses or groundcover plants are much more noticeable and give a more dramatic effect when planted in large sweeping groups of all the same type.
And, when using architectural plants as screening, groups and rows of bamboos or trees do the job very well but, again, the effect is less messy if all the same types of bamboo or tree are selected. Not only is the result more visually appealing, but the growth rates will be the same, keeping the screening more uniform as it matures.
Using the same types of climbing plants across a fence or over a pergola also looks tidier, but I usually fail miserably in persuading clients to go for this option. Gardeners expect climbers to work hard, providing screening, flowers, fragrance and a bit of colour for the whole growing season. Indeed, choosing from the range of climbing plants in this book, this is certainly