CAMELLIA JAPONICA
This magnificent and attractive flower, with all its splendid varieties, will, about this time, begin to open its beautiful flowers. But for this admired genus of plants, our Green-houses, at this season, would be void of allurement. It is, in this country, subject to mildew and red spider, and more especially in the city, which appears to be from the nature of the air. The effects of mildew on these plants, if not prevented, would prove fatal; as, from appearance, many have died by it in our city. If it has reached a great extent, the leaves are brownish, having the appearance of being decayed, or scorched with the sun. In taking hold of the leaf, it feels soft, and altogether seems to have lost its nutritive substance; and, when the young foliage expands, it becomes covered with dark brown spots, and finally very much disfigured; and, when in this state, it is attacked by red spider, and, ultimately, death ensues.
If any of the plants are affected as above described, take a sponge, and wash every leaf minutely with soft water, and syringe them with water three or four times a week, which will clean them. All the young foliage will be healthy, and that which has been affected will fall off. However, prevention is better than cure; and if the Camellias are properly syringed every evening during summer, and once or twice a week during winter, they will never be subject to the ravages of mildew or of red spider.
Tie up any of the flowers that are expanded to stakes, in case of accident; and, in syringing, observe not to let any water fall on the flowers, as it causes premature decay, and change of colour.
The mildew first appears like small particles of very fine flour, around the under edge of the leaves, and visible to the naked eye; so that, syringing, sponging, &c. under the leaf is most requisite; but, as the mildew extends, both sides of the leaves are covered with these white particles.
OF ORANGES, LEMONS, &c
As there will perhaps be more leisure in the Green-house this month than in any other during the winter, it is presumed that there will not be a moment lost. If any of the trees are infested with insects, these, being now in their inactive state, may be more easily destroyed than at any other time. It is the brown scaly insect that generally infests them. For treatment, see Hothouse, January. The plant, or tree, after being washed, before it becomes dry, will require to be syringed with water, otherwise the dust will adhere to the glutinous particles of the soap. Set the plant in an airy situation to dry, in case of damp. There are several others subject to this insect, such as Myrtles, Oleas, Oleanders, &c. which treat in the same manner. Be careful that these trees are not over watered; if the soil is moist, it is sufficient.
OF CAPE BULBS, &c
If there are any out of the ground, it is time that the whole were potted, such as Lachenàlia, Wachendórfia, Eùcomis, Ixia, Gladìolus, with several others. Keep them in the shade until they begin to grow; then put them on shelves near the light. Those that are growing must be kept in front of the house, to prevent them being weak. Wachendórfia has a beautiful large red tuber root; and, as the new root descends, give it a pot about six or seven inches.
OF HYACINTHS AND OTHER BULBOUS ROOTS
All these roots must be carefully examined. In case slugs or snails are preying upon the embryo of the flower, some of those that are farthest advanced, may be put for a few weeks in the Hot-house. It will greatly accelerate their flowering, but they must be brought out again before the florets expand, and carefully tied up, leaving room for the increase and extension of the flower stem. Give them plenty of water, and if saucers can be placed under them to retain it, it will be of advantage. Change the water every week on those that are in glasses, and keep all the growing bulbs near the light. Narcissus, Jonquils, &c. may be similarly treated.
Flower Garden
JANUARY
If the covering of the beds of choice bulbs, herbaceous plants, or tender shrubs, has been neglected last month, let it be done forthwith. The season is now precarious, and delays are dangerous. For particular directions, see December. Any bulbous roots that have been kept out of the ground, should be planted immediately, according to directions in October. Some writers have recommended keeping some of the bulbs until this month, in order to have a continued succession. Experience will prove the inefficacy of the plan, and will satisfactorily show that the difference is almost imperceptible, while the flowers are very inferior and much degenerated; and in place of having "a long continued succession of bloom," there appear, along with your finest specimens, very imperfect flowers, calculated to discourage the admirers of these "gaudy" decoratives of our flower gardens. Whereas every art employed should be to the advancement and perfection of nature.
OF FRAMING, &c
The plants and roots that are in frames, should be protected with straw mats, and the frame surrounded with litter, or leaves, or what is more advisable, banked with earth – the former being a harbour for mice and other vermin. For full directions, see December. Under this head the plants, such as Auriculas, Polyanthus, Daisies, Carnations, Pinks, Gentianellas, Campanula pyramidalis, Double rocket, Double stock, or Stockgillys, Double Wall-flower, Anemone, Ranunculus, &c. as previously enumerated as frame plants, will require very little water, and be sure to give none while they are in a frozen state. If snow should cover them, the plants will keep in a fine state under it, so never remove snow from covering cold frames, even suppose it should lay for months, – nature will operate here herself.
All the above plants except Anemone and Ranunculus are kept in perfection in the Green-house; but where neither this nor framing can be obtained, they will, in most winters, keep tolerably, if well covered with litter – the roughest from the stable, straw or hay, or such like, using means to secure it from being blown over the whole garden.
OF PRUNING AND PREPARING FOR SPRING
It is not advisable to carry on a general pruning in this month, in whatever state the weather may be. The severest frosts generally are yet to come, and too frequently in this operation, what is done now has to be repeated on the opening of spring, causing at that time work to a disadvantage; because, if pruning, when done just now, is accomplished judiciously, whatever more on the same bush is requisite to be done in spring, from the effects of frost, will be injudicious. Hence it is far preferable to delay it until the frost is over, when all can be done to advantage.
There are, undoubtedly, some shrubs that may be pruned any time, from the end of November to the first of March, such as Hibíscus syrìacus (Althea), and all its varieties, except the Double White, which is in some instances entirely killed by our severe winter, and certainly, for precaution, would be the better of some simple protection.
In many seasons, the beginning of this month is open, and admits of the operation of digging, which if it is not all done as advised last month, ought not to be delayed. The fruits of it will appear in the mellowed state of your soil in spring.
If there is any spare time, straight sticks or stakes may be prepared for summer. Tie them up in neat bundles, which will be of great service during the hurried period of the year. An opportunity of this kind should always be laid hold of; the beneficial results will in season be displayed.
ROOMS
JANUARY
Plants that are kept in rooms generally are such as require a medium temperature, say 40°. Sitting rooms or parlours, about this season, are, for the most part, heated from 55° to 65°, and very seldom has the air any admittance into these apartments, thus keeping the temperature from 15°