❯❯ You need part or all of the project to be hygienic. The strong, consistent surface of stainless steel means that it doesn’t have tiny irregularities in the surface that bacteria and other critters can cling to. It also means that you can clean the surface with some pretty powerful cleaners without damaging the material. For those reasons, stainless steel is a popular choice for food preparation and storage equipment, and also for medical purposes.
If you want to weld stainless steel, your three best options (by a mile) are stick welding, tig welding, and mig welding. Generally speaking, stainless steels are slightly more difficult to weld than carbon steels. That’s because stainless steels have lower melting temperatures, and more thermal expansion (they expand more than steel when heat is applied).
❯❯ To stick weld stainless steel, you have to use a flux-coated electrode, which protects the metal from the air while you’re welding and helps make the weld even more corrosion resistant. Keep in mind that stick welding is the messiest of the arc welding methods, and that can be a drawback when you’re welding stainless steel. The random arc marks and spatter caused by stick welding can compromise stainless steel’s pristine surface and appearance.
❯❯ Tig welding stainless steel is a great option when you’re looking to weld thin pieces. I recommend using argon as your shielding gas. You can read more about shielding gases for tig welding in Chapters 7 and 8.
❯❯ Mig welding is nice and fast, so it’s the ticket if you want to weld thicker pieces of stainless steel. In those cases, tig welding can just take too long.
Working with Aluminum
If you’re looking for a strong, lightweight metal, chances are your search can stop at aluminum. It’s a remarkably versatile material that’s usually at or near the top of the list of most-welded metals. If you stick with welding for very long, you’re probably going to want to weld some aluminum, and I can’t blame you. Read on to find out more about welding this wonderfully dynamic metal.
So what makes aluminum so special? For starters, it reacts with oxygen in the air and produces a very tough oxide film on the surface. This aluminum oxide is extremely durable, and it effectively protects the metal underneath it. (That’s why aluminum is so resistant to corrosion.)
Aluminum conducts heat about five times better than steel, and interestingly, it doesn’t change color when you heat it up. (Steel, of course, turns all kinds of different colors as you heat it up to different temperatures.) It weighs about one-third as much as steel.
Pure aluminum is a popular choice for welders, but many different aluminum alloys have also been developed. A classification system of four-digit numbers has been created to identify the various aluminum alloys. The first digit is the really critical one because it tells you what is included (other than aluminum, of course) in the alloy. Here are the details:
❯❯ 1XXX: Unalloyed aluminums made up of at least 99 percent pure aluminum
❯❯ 2XXX: Copper
❯❯ 3XXX: Manganese
❯❯ 4XXX: Silicon
❯❯ 5XXX: Magnesium
❯❯ 6XXX: Silicon and magnesium
❯❯ 7XXX: Zinc
❯❯ 8XXX: Other materials (tin is one example)
The two types of aluminum you’ll probably weld most often are pure aluminum and aluminum alloy 3003.
If you ask me, welding aluminum isn’t any more difficult or problematic than welding steel. It can take some getting used to, but after you have the hang of it, you can weld aluminum quickly and efficiently by using any one of the three major arc welding methods: stick, tig, and mig.
❯❯ My first choice for welding aluminum is always tig welding. You need to use alternating current (AC) with continuous high frequency to get the best results. (If those terms don’t make any sense, flip over to Chapters 7 and 8 for more information on tig welding.) And as with all other tig welding endeavors, make sure you select the right tungsten electrode and shielding gas for the job.
❯❯ If you’re going to be welding thicker pieces of aluminum, consider going with mig welding. As with stainless steel (see “Going with Stainless Steel” earlier in the chapter), aluminum can take a long time to weld if you’re working with thick pieces, and mig welding makes the process go faster. Be sure to keep your electrode wire clean, use a 30-degree leading travel angle, and go with pure argon for your shielding gas. (If those details are Greek to you, check out Chapters 9 and 10.)
❯❯ So what about using stick welding for aluminum? Well, it can be done, but I wouldn’t recommend it if you can go with tig or mig instead. Not many stick welding electrodes are available for working with aluminum, and maintaining good arc stability is tough. On top of that, you have to fight a constant battle to make completely sure that you keep the covering on the electrode extremely clean and dry, or you’re sunk. Bottom line: Avoid stick welding aluminum unless you simply have to do it.
Considering Other Metals
You can do a whole lot of welding with only steel, stainless steel, and aluminum, but you’ll inevitably want to branch out a little and work on some less commonly welded metals. Here’s a quick rundown of some of those metals, and you can find more information on them sprinkled throughout the other chapters of the book.
❯❯ Copper and copper-based alloys
Used for: Plumbing, electrical products, roofing, and as an additive to gold and silver to increase the strength of jewelry.
Welding process: You can use mig or tig welding for copper and copper-based alloys. Mig welding works in all positions and it’s especially useful for thicker pieces of copper. If you use mig for welding copper, be sure you use direct current electrode positive (DC+). Go with tig if you want to weld thinner pieces of copper – I recommend using direct current electrode negative (DC–).
❯❯ Magnesium
Used for: An alloy in steel. Makes steel