Fig. 5
Fig. 6
With any of the foregoing types of edge lacing the following principles must be observed to insure neat appearing work. Keep the margin between holes and edge exact by following carefully the creased line as shown in Fig. 5 above, as a guide in punching. Do not permit the thong to get twisted. This may be prevented by running the thumb and forefinger back from the edge of the leather to the point of the thong end before inserting it for the next stitch. Do not try to work with too long a thong. A two yard length is as long as may be easily handled, and if care is taken in splicing as described, the ends will not be noticeable. More important is the caution against pulling the lacing too tight. Sketch C, Fig. 4, page 68, shows how to pull up the first loop of the single layover before tightening the second. The finished lacing should lie along the edge as shown in Sketch E, and not be pulled to either side, or pucker the edges of the leather. In finishing the lacing the end may be concealed by trimming to a narrow long point and then running it back under the lacing several stitches. This will be easily done if the last three or four stitches are left loose and then tightened by pulling up carefully the separate loops, after the end has been run back. The final step in the process is to flatten the lacing by pounding with a smooth wooden mallet, see illustration, page 67.
Blotter Pad Corners
The procedure in making blotter pads is similar to that in making book ends, book covers, and other lined articles, and the steps shown in detail for this project may be adapted to these and similar projects.
Fig. 7
Fig. 7. Sketch A illustrates a corner for a, desk set which is laced on to the bottom piece of the desk pad. The desk blotter is afterwards slipped under the corner. The diagonal edge of the corner is first laced, then the corner is laced on to the pad.
Sketch B shows a two-piece corner which is made up independently of the pad and later slipped on the corner. It may be held securely in place by placing a drop of cement on the under side of the pad, before slipping the corner into place.
Sketches C and D show a method of making a corner by folding and cementing the leather to the pad. The diagonal edge of the Corner, sketch D, is turned under and cemented, then placed in position on the pad and the edges turned under the pad and folded in as shown at the corner, sketch D. This method is used with morocco and thin embossed leathers. If a heavier leather, such as tooling calf or steer, is used, the edges must be skived—Sketch A, Fig. 6, page 65. A smooth surface may be secured. by cutting away small V shaped sections in three or four places so that the extra fullness is removed. Care must be taken not to cut so close to the edge that the slits will not be well covered by the lining. A margin of at least 1/4 of an inch should be allowed. After cementing, rub and press the edge as flat and firm as possible with the bone folder. See Fig. 6, sketch B, before attaching the bottom covering or lining. It may be desired to leave the corner under a weight for a few hours.
Sketch F illustrates a stiffened padded center for a blotter-pad corner. The under surface is covered with a piece of suitable lining leather.
Punching and Lacing Procedure—Gussets
Camera Cases, and all projects having curved gussets which are to be inserted at right angles should be punched and laced as follows:
1.Punch edge of outside piece and lace the flap, using lay-over or whip stitch.
Fig. 1
2.Punch the holes in the back straight edge of both gussets, using same spacing as outside. Start lacing gussets in position with thongs for both sides in the same direction as indicated in Sketch A. This is important to insure equal pull on the thongs and correct fit of the gussets. Lace two or three inches alternately on both gussets until the beginning of the bottom curve is reached.
3.Fold outside around the gussets and lay off the holes on radial lines as indicated. Sketch B. Punch the holes as marked and continue lacing the gussets in position.
4.Punch front straight edges of gusset with holes corresponding to the outside as shown in Sketch C and finish lacing. Conceal the ends of the thongs by passing them back under the last three loops. See Sketch 20, page 75, for method.
Envelope Bags, Brief Cases, Portfolios, and other projects requiring straight folded corner gussets are punched and laced as indicated in Sketches A-E, Fig. 2. The fold on the dotted lines permits the gusset to conform to the square corner. The gussets are cemented in position and punched together with the outside and the direction of both thongs must be the same as in Camera case gussets.
Fig. 2
Metal Top Bags and One Piece Envelope Bags having rounded bottom gussets as shown in Sketches A to H, page 66, are punched after the gussets are cemented in position. Care must be taken to hold the punch so that the holes in the gusset will not slope toward the outer edge and tear out when laced. If the gusset is narrow it may be necessary to lace two stitches through one gusset hole. Hand Purses and Bags having a pointed bottom gusset are also cemented in position before punching. The corners should be punched first and tied together to prevent slipping. When punching the remaining holes, estimate the distance for about one half inch from each corner and space the holes slightly closer or farther apart as required. The gauge tip may be turned down as this is done.
Lacing of Butt Edges
Fig. 3
7.Quivers, Flash Light and Field Glass Cases, also any circular type case or project requires the punching and lacing of edges which come squarely together, forming a butt joint. The holes should be exactly parallel and a cross type of lacing is easier to keep straight.
1.Punch the bottom of the quiver body, using the gauge, with hole spacing about 1/4″. Start at one corner and