The
Mountain Hut
Book
by Kev Reynolds
© Kev Reynolds 2018
First edition 2018
ISBN: 978 1 85284 928 3
Printed in China on behalf of Latitude Press Ltd
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
All photographs are by the author unless otherwise stated.
Contains OpenStreetMap.org data © OpenStreetMap contributors, CC-BY-SA.
NASA relief data courtesy of ESRI
Acknowledgements
My thanks as ever to Jonathan Williams at Cicerone for his initial enthusiasm to take this book on, and my apologies for keeping him guessing as to its content until the very last moment. I am grateful, too, to all the Cicerone team who put it together, especially Pat Dunn, my editor, and designer Clare Crooke. Not only are they highly skilled at what they do, but they are such lovely people to work with, and I trust they know how much I value their special friendship. Thank you, each one. My good friend Gillian Price, whose personal experience of the Dolomites is much greater than mine, generously provided a description of one of her favourite huts as well as the spectacular Alta Via 2 trek across those bewitching mountains, and gave me access to some of her splendid photographs with which to illustrate them. Thanks, Gillian, I’m in your debt! I’m also grateful to Anaïs Bobst at Switzerland Tourism for the image of the new Monte Rosa Hut. And to my wife Min and our daughters, and all those with whom I’ve shared unforgettable hutting experiences in various parts of the world – my love and thanks for adding to life’s riches.
Mountain safety
Every mountain walk has its dangers, and those described in this guidebook are no exception. All who walk or climb in the mountains should recognise this and take responsibility for themselves and their companions along the way. The author and publisher have made every effort to ensure that the information contained in this guide was correct when it went to press, but, except for any liability that cannot be excluded by law, they cannot accept responsibility for any loss, injury or inconvenience sustained by any person using this book.
To call out the Mountain Rescue, ring 999 (in the UK) or the international emergency number 112: this will connect you via any available network. Once connected to the emergency operator, ask for the police.
Dedication
To all the hut guardians, known and unknown, whose personality and efforts add so much to the mountain experience
Front cover: The Mönch and Jungfrau, viewed from Schynige Platte at the start of the Tour of the Jungfrau Region
Opposite page: Secluded among some of the finest of all Swiss mountains, Cabane d’Arpitettaz was built in 1953 by seven Zinal guides
Contents
The hut guardian
Paying for the privilege
Not huts – Berghotels and gîtes d’étape
Cabane d’Arpitettaz
Refuge des Bans
Refuge de Bellachat
Rifugio Bolzano/Schlernhaus
Burg Hut
Cabane des Dix
Refuge Entre Deux Eaux
Grutten Hut
Rifugio Longoni
Totalp Hut
Tour of the Vanoise
Rätikon Höhenweg
Tour of the Jungfrau Region
Stubai High Level Route
Tour of the Bernina
Tour of Mont Blanc
Tour of Val de Bagnes
Tour of the Oisans: GR54
Alta Via 2
Tour of the Wilder Kaiser
Bivouacs, boulders and caves
Loathsome dens
The age of the mountain hut
The overcrowded Alps
Between the wars
The future has arrived
Alpine Clubs and their huts
6 Beyond the Alps – bothies, huts and lodges