ATMs are now common in Kathmandu and Pokhara. In Thamel there is one in the Kathmandu Guest House courtyard. Larger sums can be taken from Nabil Bank ATMs. The Himalayan Bank is on Tri Devi Marg.
Moneychangers are very quick to change cash but travellers’ cheques are no longer accepted in Nepal. It’s a waste of time to head for a bank these days, as most rarely exchange money and if they do are generally exceedingly slow. Currently there are no banks on the trails, although Jomsom has an ATM that may work, but don’t depend on it. Moneychangers there offer poor rates for cash.
Budgeting for the trek
Since all the costs are included in most group treks, there will only be personal expenses such as drinks, souvenirs and tips to be added to the budget, as well as some evening meals in Kathmandu and Pokhara.
Those trekking individually will need to plan for porters (if required), accommodation and food, as well as the above extras. If hiking without a porter or guide, allow at least Rs2500/US$25 per day per person for your own on-trip expenses. Add another US$25–30 per day for a guide, $20–25 for a porter-guide and $15–20 for a porter, and confirm these wages in advance. Get insurance for local staff. Make sure you know if you are expected to cover the guide/porter’s sustenance and lodgings. Take more cash than suggested, as there are so few opportunities to change money. Expect prices to rise by up to ten per cent or so a year in future.
Before planning a fully independent trek, see ‘The ever-changing regulations’ in Visas and permits (above). Expect to add $10–20 per day if these rules are in force during your trek.
COSTS ON TREK
Chicken curry on the move
Unsurprisingly, the higher you go, the higher the bills for food and accommodation. The authors spent roughly Rs2000 (room with half board for two) in Jagat, while the same in Braka cost Rs2900 and at Phedi Rs3500. On the way down in Tukuche, the equivalent cost Rs2200. Prices vary widely (up or down) according to demand.
In season (prices in rupees): dorm-bed 150–200, single room 200–250, double 300–600, triple 450, attached (inside loo) 600; dal bhat 350–550, black tea (small pot) 250–400, Coke 100–300, fried egg 100–250, boiled water 100–450, chapatti 150–300, soup 180–350, porridge 200–300, plain rice 200–350, momo (dumpling) 250–500, macaroni 200–500, potatoes 200–500, noodles 200–500, curry 200–500, spring roll 250–500, apple pancake 200–350.
Tipping
Ever since the art of trekking in Nepal was developed in the 1960s, it has been a tradition for group and independent visitors to tip their crews at the end of a trek. It’s rare that anyone is dissatisfied with the service they have been offered, so it’s no great hardship to budget for this extra. The head cook should get a little more, and the Sirdar and leader/guide more again. Allow around 10–15 per cent of the wages, or one day’s wage per each week on trek. Trekkers may also wish to donate some of their clothing and equipment to the crew.
Health matters
The main problem when discussing health matters in Nepal is the relative remoteness of the trekking regions, and the high altitude. It cannot be emphasised enough that there are virtually no adequate medical facilities en route. The nearest serviceable hospital for the Annapurna region is in Pokhara. Rural clinics are developing, but only the most basic treatments can be expected. There is a Western-manned clinic in Manang that can give limited assistance to those with ailments and those suffering the effects of high altitude. Evacuation is possible from almost all parts of the Annapurnas, but you must have insurance (or pay) before a helicopter will take off.
With relatively fewer bugs surviving at high altitude, the high zones of Nepal are not as unhealthy as some of the more popular lowland destinations, providing you are careful with personal hygiene and what you eat. That said, local levels of hygiene leave a lot to be desired by Western standards.
The following suggestions have been found to reduce health problems significantly:
Never drink untreated tap water
Avoid salads
Peel fruits
Brush teeth in bottled/cleaned water, or without water
Wash/clean hands regularly.
Water sterilisation
The biggest problem on trek is the lack of clean running water. Keeping hands clean is paramount in order to avoid the more common ailments. Fortunately lodges on the trails are much more aware of hygiene these days, and those on group treks will be supplied with plentiful boiled water and hot drinks. Others should ensure they obtain the same through their lodge hosts. In the absence of washing facilities antibacterial gel for hands and largish baby wipes for other parts are extremely useful! Bring plastic bags for storing used items and carry out all such rubbish.
Water boils at a lower temperature at high altitude, so some may wish to add sterilising tablets to the water as an added precaution. Iodine or chlorine tablets, or Micropur, can be used. Bottled drinking water can also be bought in Kathmandu, Pokhara and along the trails, although it gets very expensive the higher you go, and there is the added problem of the detrimental effect of discarded plastic on the environment; you will have to crush and carry out the bottles. The preferred option is to drink boiled water where appropriate, or use the safe water stations along the routes. As an extra precaution, you could add sterilising tablets to the ‘safe’ water!
Vaccinations
Kang Guru from Phu Gompa (Trek 6)
Currently no vaccinations are legally required, but always check the situation before travel in case of any recent changes. Consult your GP about which courses you require, and allow plenty of time for the whole series of vaccinations, as they cannot all be given at the same time and some may need to be spread over a number of weeks. It is worthwhile ensuring that all your vaccinations are recorded on a certificate, although this is not a legal requirement.
Cholera Although neither very effective nor required by law, this might be recommended if any recent outbreak has occurred.
Typhoid/paratyphoid Vaccinations are strongly recommended, as these are potential risks.
Yellow fever Vaccination will give cover for 10 years. It is normally only required if coming from an infected area.
Tetanus/polio Recommended.
BCG tuberculosis Vaccination may be recommended by some GPs.
Hepatitis There are various forms of this nasty disease; hepatitis A is the main risk for travellers. New vaccines are continually being developed for all strains of hepatitis.
Meningitis/Japanese encephalitis Sporadic outbreaks occur in rural parts of Nepal, although the risk is minimal. Vaccines are available, but are expensive. Clinics in Kathmandu will give vaccinations at short notice for a much lower negotiable fee than payable at home; the CIWEC clinic is the safest option.
Rabies Certainly found in Nepal, but unless you expect to make prolonged or frequent visits, the vaccination is quite an expensive procedure. Seek advice well before (six months at least) the planned trip. Beware of dogs in Nepal – particularly those that guard herding settlements and monasteries – especially in Mustang.
Malaria prophylaxis
Malaria is not found in most of Nepal; it is at present confined to parts of the southern lowlands. However, those spending a night after a trek in Chitwan, for example, or travelling overland to India, will be exposed to malarial risks.
These risks should not be ignored. Using insect repellent at and after dusk, as well as wearing suitable clothing, will give some protection against bites.