CEDLA Latin America Studies (CLAS)
General Editor
Michiel Baud, CEDLA
Series Editorial Board
Anthony Bebbington, Clark University
Edward F. Fischer, Vanderbilt University
Anthony L. Hall, London School of Economics and Political Science
Barbara Hogenboom, CEDLA
Barbara Potthast, University of Cologne
Rachel Sieder, University of London
Eduardo Silva, Tulane University
Patricio Silva, Leiden University
CEDLA
Centro de Estudios y Documentación Latinoamericanos
Centro de Estudos e Documentação Latino-Americanos
Centre for Latin American Research and Documentation
CEDLA conducts social science and history research, offers university courses, and has a specialized library for the study of the region. The Centre also publishes monographs and a journal on Latin America.
Keizersgracht 395-397
1016 EK Amsterdam
The Netherlands/Países Bajos
For information on previous volumes published in this series, please contact CEDLA at the above address.
Volume 98
Latin America Facing China: South-South Relations beyond the
Washington Consensus
Edited by Alex E. Fernández Jilberto and Barbara Hogenboom
Volume 99
Foodscapes, Foodfields, and Identities in Yucatán
Steffan Igor Ayora-Diaz
FOODSCAPES, FOODFIELDS,AND IDENTITIESIN YUCATÁN
Steffan Igor Ayora-Diaz
Published in 2012 by
Berghahn Books
© 2012 Steffan Igor Ayora-DiazFirst ebook edition published in 2012 All rights reserved. Except for the quotation of short passages for the purposes of criticism and review, no part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system now known or to be invented, without written permission of the publisher. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Ayora-Diaz, Steffan Igor. Foodscapes, foodfields, and identities in Yucat / Steffan Igor Ayora-Diaz. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978-0-85745-220-7 (hardback : alk. paper) ISBN 978-0-85745-334-1 (ebook) 1. Food habits GT2853.M6A96 2011 394.125097265 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. ISBN 978-0-85745-220-7 hardbackISBN 978-0-85745-334-1 ebook
Contents
Introduction: Food and the Post-colonial Politics of Identity
The Story of Two Peoples: Mexican and Yucatecan Peoplehood
Mérida and the Contemporary Foodscape
The Yucatecan Culinary Field and the Naturalization of Taste
Cookbooks and the Gastronomic Field: From Minor to Major Codes (and Back)
The Gastronomic Field: Restaurants and the Institutionalization of Yucatecan Gastronomy
Conclusion: Food and Identities in Post-national Times
Illustrations
FIGURES
I.1 Cod Biscayne-style, final stages of cooking
1.1 Palace Cantón at the Paseo Montejo
1.2 Monument to Jacinto Canek, Canek Avenue, Mérida
2.1 Supermarket in Mérida
2.2 Street vendor of cochinita pibil and baked piglet, Mérida
3.1 Family Christmas Eve supper table set in buffet style
5.1 Restaurant patio in downtown Mérida
5.2 The author facing panuchos and salbutes in a downtown restaurant
TABLES
2.1 The urban foodscape—eating out for breakfast
2.2 The urban foodscape—eating out for almuerzo
2.3 The urban foodscape—eating out for supper
4.1 Proportion of Yucatecan recipes in relation to the total of recipes included