Kabuki Costume. Ruth M. Shaver

      

      Kabuki Costume

      1. (Frontispiece) Aragato costume: Soga no Goroin Yanone. The outer robe is an atsuwata. The armor, the kumadori make-up, and the elaborate wig are accouterments of the bombastic role.

      RUTH M. SHAVER

      Kabuki

       Costume

      Illustrations by Sōma Akira and Ōta Gakō

      CHARLES E. TUTTLE COMPANY

       Rutland, Vermont & Tokyo, Japan

      Published by the Charles E. Tuttle Company, Inc.

       of Rutland, Vermont Tokyo, Japan

       with editorial offices at

       Osaki Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo 141-0032

      © 1966 by Charles E. Tuttle Co., Inc.

       All rights reserved

      LCC Card No. 66-15266

       ISBN: 978-1-4629-0398-6 (ebook)

      First edition, 1966

       Second printing, 1990

      Printed in Japan

      To

      JACK BRYANT SHAVER

       IGHIKAWA DANJŪRŌ XI

      and the

      KIKUGORŌ GEKIDAN

      As this book was going to press, the Kabuki world and its many friends were stunned by the tragic, irreparable loss of Ichikawa Danjūrō XI who died Tuesday, November 10, 1965 at the age of fifty-six.

      Table of Contents

       List of Illustrations

       Acknowledgments

       Introduction

      PART ONE: HISTORICAL BACKGROUND

      1: EARLY KABUKI

      Okuni Kabuki

      Onna Kabuki

      Wakashu Kabuki

      Yarō Kabuki

      2: GENROKU KABUKI

      Danjūrō I and Aragoto

      Actors and Roles

      Shibaraku and Its Costumes

      Sukeroku and Its Costumes

      Danjūrō's Precepts for Actors

      Genroku Theaters of Edo

      The Jōshiki Maku, Kabuki's Standard Curtain

      Regulations Governing Costume Before and During Genroku

      Costumes and Make-up

      3: HŌREKI KABUKIKABUKI

      4: KANSEI KABUKI

      5: BUNKA-BUNSEI KABUKI

      6: BAKUMATSU KABUKI

      7: MEIJI KABUKI

      Danjūrō IX and the Theatrical Reformation

      Onoe Kikugorō V

      Other Meiji Actors

      The Era of the Shintōmi-za

      8: TAISHŌ AND SHŌWA KBUKI

      PART TWO: ISHŌ: COSTUMES

      9: COSTUMES: A GENERAL VIEW

      The Kimono

      Onnagata Clothing

      The Hakama

      Otoko Clothing

      10: MEN'S COSTUMES FOR JIDAI-MONO

      Daimon

      Suō

      Naga-gamishimo

      Kamishimo

      Omigoromo

      Yoten Costumes

      Yakko Costumes

      Bōzu Costumes

      Special Costumes

      11: ONNAGATA CCOSTUMES FOR JIDAI-MONO

      Jūni-hitoe

      Kaoyo Gozen Costume

      Katahazushi Costume

      Koshimoto Costume

      Kokumochi Costume

      Akahime Costume

      12: MEN'S COSTUMES FOR SEWA-MONO AND KIZEWA-MONO

      Tobi or Hikeshi Costumes

      Wagoto and Nimaime Costumes

      Michiyuki Dual-style Costumes

      Wakashu Costumes

      Kizewa-mono Costumes

      13: ONNAGATA CCOSTUMES FOR SEWA-MONO

      Machi-musume Costumes

      Inaka-musume Costumes

      Jochū-musume Costumes

      Machi-nyōbō Costumes

      Inaka-nyōbō Costumes

      Kasha-gata or Fuke-oyama Costumes

      Mekake Costumes

      Geisha Costumes

      Courtesan Costumes

      Akuba Costumes

      14: AARMOR AND BATTLE COSTUMES

      Yoroi Designs

      Mode of Dressing for Battle

      Warriors' Wigs

      Daimyō Battle Dress

      Young Warrior Battle Dress

      Other Battle Costumes

      15: COSTUME

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